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CHABLIS

2019 1er Cru Vaillons Domaine Moreau-Naudet

EN PRIMEUR
ChardonnayWhiteFrance,BurgundyChablis1er Cru 14%Vaillons

Picked out by the magazine 'Bourgogne Aujourd'hui' as the best of their 2019 tasting in Chablis, and you can immediately see why - there's lovely harmony, great richness, a touch of sweetness in the fruit, but only the most evanescent impression, as behind it is rock juice and energy. We discuss this and Virginie agrees that the Vaillons is the easiest to like and understand - possibly not the most serious. But gorgeous. Drinking range: 2022 - 2030L&S (Oct 2020)

* This is a pre-shipment/primeur offer. All orders are accepted under the TERMS of this offer which differ from the terms of the rest of the site.

The 2019 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru is missing a little intensity on the nose, traces of pressed white flowers and a touch of slate. The palate is well balanced with a harmonious entry, quite saline in the mouth with good depth and length towards the finish. Very fine. Drinking range: 2022 - 2030 Rating: 91 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2021)

With more flesh on the bone, this is a richer and slightly more hedonistic style and one which can cope with more intense cuisine. I would be tempted to grab both of these Moreau-Naudets, because they are both beautiful and they carry out completely different tasks! Rating: 17.5 Matthew Jukes www.matthewjukes.com (Jan 2021)

From Roncière, Séchet (75 year old vines) and Epinottes. Fresh mid yellow. Lively nose, close to the stones as ever, very good intensity behind, fruit keeps returning. A coating of velvet on the enamel. This fine Vaillons as maintained the necessary tension alongside the ripeness of the fruit. Tasted: September 2020 **** Rating: 90 - 93 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy  (Jan 2021)

There's evidence of the oak here in a broad, lightly spiced aroma, along with citrus and ripe green fruits. Rich and creamy in texture, more Côte d'Or than Chablis, perhaps, but still with excellent freshness. Powerful, the texture gently chewy. Long and harmonious and with good ageing potential despite its ripeness. Drinking range: 2022 - 2030 Rating: 17 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2021)

A domaine of 25 hectares, of which 3 are in Petit Chablis, 11 or 12 in Chablis, 3 in Vaillons, 2 in Forets, 1.6 in Montmains, 0.86 in Montée de Tonnerre, and 0.58 in Valmur. (Yes, this does not make 25 - there are further parcels of young vines in the Courgis sector - Beauregards, Côte de Jouan and Goulotte, which are currently sold in bulk).

Virginie (Mimi) Moreau is proving more than equal to the task of taking over from her husband Stéphane. Stéphane, who was influenced by Vincent Dauvissat (who recommended him to us many years ago, and who remains an influence here) was vigneron whose star burned very brightly, and the domaine continues along the lines he set, working organically, hand-picking, aiming for optimum maturity while avoiding any botrytis influence.

The cellar-work is also masterful, using 30% barrel-élevage for all the Premier and the Grand Cru, but not in such a way that oakiness can readily be detected in the wines (all the barrels are steamed rather than charred and there is no new oak except for in the straight Chablis, and then only one barrel per 100hl in order to age it prior to using for the Premiers Crus).

Mimi's daughter Neil (Nelle) is a bright new addition to the team here and together there is a calm confidence in what they are doing, and the wines - full of racy character, textural depth and complexity, seem to be better with every vintage.

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