SANTENAY
2020 Comme Dessus Domaine de la Choupette
Grapes | Pinot Noir |
Colour | Red |
Origin | France, Burgundy |
Other | Vegetarian, Vegan |
District | Côte d'Or |
Sub-district | Côte de Beaune |
Village | Santenay |
ABV | 13% |
This vineyard is directly above La Comme and has a little less limestone rock in the subsoil - but some smaller stones and similarly mixed with clay. Smaller grapes here always than in La Comme. The Comme Dessus was more savoury than the other reds we tasted on the day. Darker fruits, like black cherry with a supporting note of ripe strawberry. A hint of smoke, leather & black pepper. The tannins are the most pronounced of the range. Quite firm but there is good acidity too. Needs a bit more time to come around. But well loaded and balanced with structure fruit and lift. Drinking range: 2023 - 2030 L&S (Nov 2021)
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Domaine de la Choupette
The Gutrin brothers' domaine was created when the twins joined forces in 1992 - it's based in the middle of Santenay, with Jean-Christophe in charge of the vines and Philippe in the winery. Perrine Gutrin runs the 'front of house'. They have vineyards in Puligny (three hectares), Chassagne (half a hectare) Maranges (one hectare) and Santenay (seven and a half hectares) - eight hectares of red and four of white in all. The vineyards are worked traditionally with ploughing rather than chemicals for weed control and to encourage the roots to go deeper. Yields are initially controlled at the pruning and with de-budding, and finally a green harvest as necessary. The domaine is certified HVE 3 ('High Environmental Value') from the 2022 harvest.
Whites are classically made with élevage in barrel for a year with up to half new wood. They are playing with the specification of the barrels, looking for a 'discreet toast'.
The reds are de-stemmed and macerated cold for a week before the three week fermentation at around 28C, then the temperature is allowed to rise to around 33C to stabilise colour and tannins. This gentle vinification is aimed at making fruit-forward wines, which are then aged in barrel for twelve to eighteen months using a mix of new and up to three-year-old barrels.
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