BEAUNE
2021 Rouge 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Domaine Joseph Drouhin
Beautiful nose of wild raspberries, cherries, sandalwood, cloves, orange fruit and cardamom. So harmonious on the palate, with very fine, seamless tannins and fresh acidity, all integrated. Medium-bodied, long and full of energy. Drink or hold. Rating: 96 Stuart Pigott, JamesSuckling.com (Aug 2023)
75cl bottles (case of 6)
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Drouhin noted that this had just been bottled a few days before I tasted it and not surprisingly, it was much more aromatically restrained with its nose of markedly floral and spicy red pinot fruit scents. The texture of the medium-bodied and less mineral-driven flavors is quite similar to that of the Les Cras though the supporting tannins are even finer on the beautifully balanced and sneaky long finale. This is a Clos des Mouches of generosity and finesse. Drinking range: 2023 - 2031 Rating: 92 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Apr 2023)
Reserved on the nose, the palate is more giving with black cherries and intense, brooding fireplace aromas. The rounded mid-palate is surrounded by somewhat thick, gruff tannins, but the racy acidity is nicely integrated. This needs time for the tannins to settle into its concentrated fruit core. Rating: 94 *** Christy Canterbury MW - TimAtkin.com (Feb 2023)
Lightish crimson. Intense, lifted, vibrant red fruit with a hint of oak adding a more savoury aspect. Beaune’s red-fruit purity showing through. That savoury side is more apparent on the palate. Firm, gently chewy, but smoothed, tannins. Succulent and long. Embryonic but showing its ready harmony and likely longevity. Drinking range: 2028 - 2040 Rating: 17 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2023)
The 2021 Beaune Clos des Mouches Rouge 1er Cru is one of my picks from Drouhin this year. Wonderful, vivacious red fruit leap from the glass, hints of sous-bois and dried rose petal. The palate is beautifully balanced with fine mineralité, demonstrating more complexity than the preceding Beaune Cras with more grip on the finish. Superb. Drinking range: 2025 - 2045 Rating: 92-94 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2023)
The 2021 Beaune Clos des Mouches Rouge 1er Cru is one of my picks from Drouhin this year. Wonderful, vivacious red fruit leap from the glass, hints of sous-bois and dried rose petal. The palate is beautifully balanced with fine mineralité, demonstrating more complexity than the preceding Beaune Cras with more grip on the finish. Superb. Rating: 92-94 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Nov 2022)
Fortunately, the yield was better in red than white! A solid red crimson colour. Peppery notes, the whole bunches more evident than on the Cras. Good supple tannins here and then with a livelier finish, perhaps thanks to the stems. Fine, persistent red fruit. Drinking range: 2025 - 2030 Rating: 90-92 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy (Nov 2022)
Domaine Joseph Drouhin
Joseph Drouhin, founded in 1880 and still family owned, are one of the most well-respected names in Burgundy, especially through their flagship wine, the iconic Clos des Mouches.
A huge part of the Drouhin production comes from their own domaine fruit (78 hectares), and much of the rest comes from contracts such as that with the Marquis de Laguiche, who shook hands with the grandfather of the current generation, agreeing to let him manage his vineyards which included an important part of Le Montrachet; this collaboration endures. Today, the fourth generation is at the helm
Small refinements continue to be made here. The presses have been changed - a reversion to basket pressing for the reds, and for whites the presses are open - along with a number of other growers they are following the trend to think that slight oxidation of the juice before fermentation is not a problem and may add complexity as well as avoiding later problems of premature oxidation in bottle.
For the reds there has been the introduction of selective whole-bunch fermentation in the Côte de Nuits wines. The house style remains one that 'emphasises the natural elegance of great Burgundies' as they describe it. The domaine is all cultivated with an organic and biodynamic approach.
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