CHABLIS
2021 Vieilles Vignes Les Pargues Domaine Moreau-Naudet
| Grapes | Chardonnay |
| Colour | White |
| Origin | France, Burgundy |
| District | Chablis |
| ABV | 13% |
This plot of older vines from the unofficial Les Pargues lieu-dit is always beefier and more 'costaud' than the regular village Chablis. A distinct step up in power and intensity - so clearly showing the the impact of vine age on the juice one gets. In France they are not allowed to call it Pargues - so it is known as 'Charactere' which sounds dreadful - but it is true the wine has real Chablis character. Lovely - with more guts and more texture in the middle. Some savoury notes, hard cheese and crushed stone and then that lovely fruit. Firm peach and tangy citrus, livened up with spice and dried flowers too. Pargues is really good again this year. L&S (Nov 2022)
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Or, check the RELATED PRODUCTS below for different vintages or wines of a similar style.
Domaine Moreau-Naudet
A domaine of 25 hectares, of which 3 are in Petit Chablis, 11 or 12 in Chablis, 3 in Vaillons, 2 in Forets, 1.6 in Montmains, 0.86 in Montée de Tonnerre, and 0.58 in Valmur. (Yes, this does not make 25 - there are further parcels of young vines in the Courgis sector - Beauregards, Côte de Jouan and Goulotte, which are currently sold in bulk).
Virginie (Mimi) Moreau is proving more than equal to the task of taking over from her husband Stéphane. Stéphane, who was influenced by Vincent Dauvissat (who recommended him to us many years ago, and who remains an influence here) was vigneron whose star burned very brightly, and the domaine continues along the lines he set, working organically, hand-picking, aiming for optimum maturity while avoiding any botrytis influence.
The cellar-work is also masterful, using 30% barrel-élevage for all the Premier and the Grand Cru, but not in such a way that oakiness can readily be detected in the wines (all the barrels are steamed rather than charred and there is no new oak except for in the straight Chablis, and then only one barrel per 100hl in order to age it prior to using for the Premiers Crus).
Mimi's daughter Neil (Nelle) is a bright new addition to the team here and together there is a calm confidence in what they are doing, and the wines - full of racy character, textural depth and complexity, seem to be better with every vintage.
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RELATED PRODUCTS
2019 MOREY SAINT DENIS Blanc Les Crais Domaine Christian Clerget
Côte d'Or Burgundy France 13.5% White
Pinot Blanc, Pinot Beurot, Chardonnay.
Racked just before the 2020 harvest to make room for the new vintage. This comes from part of les Crais that has a very white mineral limestone soil. Quite full and concentrated, crunchy and crisp, bright fruit and lots...(read more)
L&S
2021 SAVIGNY LES BEAUNE Blanc Clos du Village Thibault Liger-Belair Successeurs
Côte d'Or Burgundy France 13% White
Chardonnay.
20-30% Pinot Blanc in the vineyard. Long fermentation, so still half-made when we tasted. Good volume and body, it's something a little different, but very likeable. Not very deep soils - it's on pebbles.
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