CHARMES CHAMBERTIN
2021 Grand Cru Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot
To contradict my initial thoughts on the Clos Vougeot, the Charmes shows spicy with a darker expression, with energy and depth, brooding and mouthfilling in a way that suggests Mazoyères more than Charmes, with the structure to go with the density. Drinking range: 2030 - 2045L&S (Oct 2022)
75cl bottles (case of 6)
* This is a pre-shipment/primeur offer. All orders are accepted under the TERMS of this offer which differ from the terms of the rest of the site.
Yves really knocked it out of the park in 2021. While all of the wines written up here are delicious, this one has that truly magical je ne sais quoi that sets the palate reeling. Everything is beautifully in place here, from the spirited acidic lift balancing the sumptuous, full body to the sculptured tannins pulling the flavors of Asian spices, mulberries and blueberry cobbler into a lingering finish. Drinking range: 2023 - Rating: 97 *** Christy Canterbury MW - TimAtkin.com (Feb 2023)
(from a .30 ha parcel in Charmes proper). A brooding but fresh nose combines notes of just crushed dark berries with those of the sauvage, spice and a plethora of floral elements. There is outstanding volume and concentration to the powerful, focused and muscular flavors that coat the palate with dry extract on the notably more complex and persistent finale. This is impressive though note well that patience, and plenty of it, will be necessary. Drinking range: 2036 - Rating: 92-94 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2023)
Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot
Vignerons since the seventeenth century, the Confuron family has always selected and propagated vines to ensure that their plant material produces the highest quality, and they even have a clone of Pinot named after them - 'Pinot Confuron'.
The domaine has several Grands Cru vineyards as well as two hectares of the great Vosne Romanée Premier Cru 'Les Suchots'. There are around 12 hectares in all. The vines have never seen chemical weedkillers, and are ploughed and managed organically.
The Confurons have always used whole-bunch fermentation, picking very late, which really is a necessity if the stems are to be properly ripe and not give green flavours to the wine. A bit like the Thévenets with their whites in the Mâconnais, they pick so much later that they can seem to have different vintages to everyone else. Yves thinks that 2007 was their great vintage of the first decade of this millennium, and he'd probably be the only grower in the Côte de Nuits who would say that. Yves also makes the wines at Domaine de Courcelin Pommard, in the same way.
Yves, opinionated and laconical as ever, dismisses those who make pale wines by 'infusion' and says that failing to get the whole bunches properly ripe - and using all the bunch - is failing to get everything the terroir can offer. The wines he makes are dark, richly concentrated, and often hard to taste in their development, but experience shows that they age brilliantly. Defending his decision to pick late, he once said 'you miss the differentiation between vintages' if you don't - making 'cut-and-paste' wines which are the same every year... if you pay for a seat at the opera, you don't want to hear a variety singer'.
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