CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET
2021 1er Cru Chenevottes Domaine Joseph Colin
Just a single barrel this year instead of three. He will bottle it straight from the barrel. There's structure and volume as befits a Chassagne Premier Cru, but gosh it's not giving much away. Very mineral, and not so much of the gourmand side we've come to expect here. Joseph remarks that it's been tasting pretty much the same since July and he does not think it's interesting to prolong the élevage, it will find it's expression in bottle. Drinking range: 2025 - 2035L&S (Oct 2022)
75cl bottles (case of 6)
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(from Chenevottes proper; only one barrel made in 2021 versus the usual four). Once again the nose is both cool and restrained with its very pretty essence of pear, petrol and rosemary oil wisps. There is both excellent volume and mid-palate density to the balanced, complex and lingering finale. This is finer than it usually is and while the words refinement and Chenevottes are rarely used together in the same sentence, they are apt here. Drinking range: 2029 - Rating: 92 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jun 2023)
Still in barrel, just one of them, from which the bottling will be done directly. Despite the paucity of production, this is actually quite coherent. The apples are ripe, and the wine is harmonious all the way through, and persistent. Drinking range: 2025 - 2030 Rating: 92-94 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy (Oct 2022)
Domaine Joseph Colin
Joseph Colin is one of the four children of Marc Colin (the others being Pierre-Yves, Damien and Caroline), who had a large domaine with vines in Saint Aubin, Santenay, Chassagne and Puligny. Pierre-Yves left the family domaine in 2005 and after that Joseph was an important member of the team there. After making a token 1800 or so bottles on his own account in 2016, he started in earnest with 2017, with seven hectares of vines, from which he makes an astonishing nineteen different cuvées.
Most of the vines he has in Saint Aubin are young, but by limiting bunches to six or seven per vine, he manages to control the yields. With plenty of time to learn his craft at Domaine Marc Colin, he has developed into a confident winemaker. He experimented with sulphur levels in the wines at the family domaine, so coming to his current view that the wines should be left the longest time possible without added S02, perhaps adding some at racking, but if he feels there's still enough C02 after racking, he will not even add any at that stage, so as to develop 'wine at its purest', but he is keen to say also that he has no standard recipe - he will adapt to each wine. In 2020 he again used no S02 until just before bottling, but he's clear that if there's some botrytis, for example, he will add it earlier. Generally nothing is either fined or filtered. He is very aware of biodynamics, but says that the tides are more important than just the phase of the moon, and that he places less importance on whether it's a fruit or flower day - for him the important thing is not to manipulate a wine when it's tasting good - you must do it when it's not showing well.
Joseph is a very bright new prospect for lovers of precise, pure white Burgundies with fresh acidity and crystalline definition.
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