CLOS DE LA ROCHE
2021 Grand Cru Domaine Lignier-Michelot
Grapes | Pinot Noir |
Colour | Red |
Origin | France, Burgundy |
District | Côte d'Or |
Sub-district | Côte de Nuits |
Village | Morey Saint Denis |
Classification | Grand Cru |
ABV | 13.5% |
Vineyard | Clos de la Roche |
Unusually tasted after the Clos Saint Denis as Virgile wanted 'to keep the beautiful harmony of the the Clos de la Roche for the finish'. Deep colour, and a very immediate rich and floral and red fruit nose. It's almost like a cross between the Charmes Chambertin and the Clos saint Denis in terms of weight and energy, but there's an illuminated ruby stained-glass brilliance of colour to the aromatics, and the juicy, velvety balance with the underlying mineral is quite remarkable. Bravo! Drinking range: 2030 - 2040 L&S (Oct 2022)
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The 2021 Clos-de-la-Roche Grand Cru contains 80% whole bunches. It has a beautifully delineated and focused bouquet with blackberry, briary, wet limestone and a hint of juniper. It seems to grow with several swirls of the glass. The palate is very well-balanced with fine tannins that frame the sinewy red fruit, laced with white pepper and orange rind. It fans out wonderfully on the finish whilst retaining the class you expect from such a noble climat. This is deeply impressive even without its challenging context. Drinking range: 2025 - 2050 Rating: 95-97 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2023)
Domaine Lignier-Michelot
A domaine now of 13.5 hectares, some owned, some in fermage with a little bought in. An average of 290 barrels a year. 25% regionals, 50% Villages, 20% Premiers crus and 5% Grands Crus. Virgile Lignier worked at the domaine with his father Maurice from 1988, beginning to bottle some of the wine from 1992 (it had previously been sold to the négoce), taking over in 2000, which was the vintage when he first bottled all the domaine's production.
In the vineyard Virgile made significant changes, stopping the use of herbicides, and beginning to plough instead. Green harvesting to limits yields followed, along with greater attention to grape selection. The domaine works organically except in extremis, so it's lutte raisonnée.
The wines are made with the least intervention possible, with lots of whole bunches. little extraction (one or two pigeages but mostly he's into remontages, then aged in barrel with 15-20% new wood. They have a lovely combination of enough body and richness, combined with a lively clarity of expression. The old vines village cuvées are seriously good, and great value too. Going up the scale each site seems to speak very clearly of its source and there is a brightness and energy along with full, seamless fruit.
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