CLOS VOUGEOT
2021 Grand Cru Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair
| Grapes | Pinot Noir |
| Colour | Red |
| Origin | France, Burgundy |
| District | Côte d'Or |
| Sub-district | Côte de Nuits |
| Village | Vougeot |
| Classification | Grand Cru |
| ABV | 13% |
| Vineyard | Clos Vougeot |
This 0.72-hectare parcel sits toward the southern side and upslope in the Clos. The fruit seems to be straining against the oak a bit; it seems the wine could use more extract and fruit density, though Thibault said this probably received ten pigeages. There is some tantalizing meatiness accompanying the delicate strawberries and cranberries while crushed stones join on the finish. Rating: 94 *** Christy Canterbury MW - TimAtkin.com (Feb 2023)
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(from a .72 ha parcel on the Vosne side in the middle of the vineyard abutting the southern wall). Moderate reduction blurs the nuances of the underlying fruit. By contrast, there is a lovely sense of tension suffusing the reasonably concentrated flavors that retain good delineation on the lingering and palate coating finish that is a bit less austere than usual. A quality and ageworthy effort. Drinking range: 2033 - Rating: 92-94 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2023)
The 2021 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru has a smooth and harmonious bouquet but for me it lacks a bit of cohesion and depth of fruit. The palate is medium-bodied, quite strict and linear. Liger-Belair mentioned that he is trying to get away from rustic tannins, but I still find this coarse on the finish. Drinking range: 2024 - 2038 Rating: 89-91 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2023)
Thibault used to do a light extraction to avoid rusticity but found that he got it anyway, because the tannins come out very quickly. So now he is trying to bring out much more flesh in the wine in which the tannins will dissolve. The 2021, entirely destemmed, received 10 punch downs during its time in vat. The oak, 70% new wood, shows with a light veneer on the nose, but nothing out of kilter. There is indeed a firm tannic structure but with an additional envelope of fresh red fruit, a little acidity to finish. It will be interesting to follow this wine to see how Thibault’s gamble plays out. A 2021 for the longer term. Drinking range: 2029 - 2038 Rating: *** 92-95 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy (Nov 2022)
Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair
Thibault Liger-Belair has two hectares in Les Saint Georges, the vineyard which gives Nuits the rest of its name, and 60 ares out of a total of 4 hectares of the Grand Cru Richebourg, as well as a good holding in the Clos Vougeot and some well-placed village wines. The vineyards are a good start, but it is Thibault himself who has catapulted this domaine straight into the very top echelons of Côte de Nuits domaines from his first vintage (2002). Thibault was trained as an oenologist but first worked as a wine buyer. He has come to wine making with a wide experience of wine buying, and has had the advantage of having discussed wine-making for many years, with the benefit of his oenological background, with some of the best winemakers of the world. Viticulture is biodynamic (since 2005), yields low but not ludicrously low, everything is pragmatic, so that he should be doing just what is necessary and no more. He uses 40-50% new wood maximum. The wines are bright, pure, focused, aromatic and elegant without lacking anything in the way of stuffing.
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