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GEVREY CHAMBERTIN

2021 Domaine Derey Frères

EN PRIMEUR
Pinot NoirRedFrance,BurgundyCôte d'OrCôte de NuitsGevrey Chambertin 13%

A fuller more even red than the Fixins. This has a suave supple texture which is really appealing. It comes from Craite Paille below La Justice, hence more strawberry in the fruit mix, typical of this part of Gevrey. Certainly the tannins are far less evident here, with just a refreshing point of acidity. Drinking range: 2025 - 2029 Rating: 90 L&S (Nov 2022)

75cl bottles (case of 6)

* This is a pre-shipment/primeur offer. All orders are accepted under the TERMS of this offer which differ from the terms of the rest of the site.

This comes from Craite-Paille - quite sandy soils at the bottom of the village by La Justice. Not the best Gevrey terroir, but has the advantage that the wines are accessible young. Fresh and delicate - it's not a wine with huge depth, but it is very Gevrey in its black fruit expression and harmony. Good length too. Drinking range: 2024 - 2030L&S (Oct 2022)

(from a .57 ha holding in Craite Paille). More prominent crushed leaf characters are present on the red berry and earth-suffused nose. The palate impression of the lighter weight flavors seems somewhat evolved while there is noticeable bitterness on the somewhat short finish. An odd showing. Drinking range: 2024 - Rating: 86 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2023)

Domaine Derey Frères has its cellar in the village of Couchey, between Marsannay and Fixin. The family's vigneron background can be traced back to 1650, but it was called Derey Frères only from the 1950s, with the establishment of the domaine as it is now when brothers Albert and Maurice worked together. Fifth generation Pierre Derey, while keeping an eye on things, has ceded to the this sixth generation, his sons Maxime, Romain and Pierre-Marie, who seem to work well as a team in vineyard and cellar - so the domaine's name has never been more appropriate.

The brothers have 20 hectares of vines, spread from the edge of Dijon to Gevrey Chambertin. There are Bourgogne Rouges from the historic vineyards of the Dukes of Burgundy which are relics of the historic Dijon vineyards, now mostly part of the town. The core of the domaine could be said to be the ten hectares in Marsannay, while the vineyards in Fixin and Gevrey Chambertin complete the range.

In the vineyard the brothers have turned the whole domaine into organic conversion - the first certified wines will be from the 2023 harvest. Winemaker Maxime has experimented with some whole bunches, ranging from 20% top 100%, quite quick alcoholic fermentations, with or without the addition of sulphites, and usually with indigenous yeasts, but with no fixed recipe - it all depends on the year. The wines are then aged for between 12 and 18 months with an average of 25% new barrels (up to 40% in the top wines).

The result is wines which they say are in the image of the three brothers - 'instinctive, frank and spontaneous', with immediate pleasure from a juicy fruit which dominates, but which will not prevent the wines from aging well.

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