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MARSANNAY

2021 Les Genelières Domaine Derey Frères

EN PRIMEUR
Pinot NoirRedFrance,BurgundyCôte d'OrCôte de NuitsMarsannay 13%Les Genelières

50% whole bunch. Bright and balanced, and with a tiny note of sucrosity, it stays fresh and dancing - I really like this style - the mildly tannic touch merely adds to the freshness and drinkability. You can taste the whole bunches but it's not excessive. The vines here are a massal selection taken from Domaine Ponsot in Morey - Jean-Marie Ponsot was great friends with the boys' grandfather. Drinking range: 2024 - 2032L&S (Oct 2022)

75cl bottles (case of 6)

* This is a pre-shipment/primeur offer. All orders are accepted under the TERMS of this offer which differ from the terms of the rest of the site.

Less obvious though still easily noticeable wood sets off the aromas of plum and floral nuances, especially violet and acacia, along with a herbal tea top note. The detailed and relatively refined middleweight flavors exude a subtle minerality on the clean and dry in the best sense finale. Drinking range: 2028 - Rating: 88-90 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2023)

The Dereys decided to use just 50% rather than 100% whole bunch vinification and no sulphur until after malolactic. The vines were planted using pinot fin ex Domaine Ponsot in 1973. Rich purple, the nose is explosive and not quite in control in this sample. The wine on the palate though has a superb intensity which comes from the quality of the vine material, a good site and intelligent winemaking. There is a layer of velvet over and above the others and excellent persistence. There is just a little wildness which will need to be managed before bottling so as to earn the 5th star Drinking range: 2025 - 2030 Rating: 90-93 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy  (Nov 2022)

Domaine Derey Frères has its cellar in the village of Couchey, between Marsannay and Fixin. The family's vigneron background can be traced back to 1650, but it was called Derey Frères only from the 1950s, with the establishment of the domaine as it is now when brothers Albert and Maurice worked together. Fifth generation Pierre Derey, while keeping an eye on things, has ceded to the this sixth generation, his sons Maxime, Romain and Pierre-Marie, who seem to work well as a team in vineyard and cellar - so the domaine's name has never been more appropriate.

The brothers have 20 hectares of vines, spread from the edge of Dijon to Gevrey Chambertin. There are Bourgogne Rouges from the historic vineyards of the Dukes of Burgundy which are relics of the historic Dijon vineyards, now mostly part of the town. The core of the domaine could be said to be the ten hectares in Marsannay, while the vineyards in Fixin and Gevrey Chambertin complete the range.

In the vineyard the brothers have turned the whole domaine into organic conversion - the first certified wines will be from the 2023 harvest. Winemaker Maxime has experimented with some whole bunches, ranging from 20% top 100%, quite quick alcoholic fermentations, with or without the addition of sulphites, and usually with indigenous yeasts, but with no fixed recipe - it all depends on the year. The wines are then aged for between 12 and 18 months with an average of 25% new barrels (up to 40% in the top wines).

The result is wines which they say are in the image of the three brothers - 'instinctive, frank and spontaneous', with immediate pleasure from a juicy fruit which dominates, but which will not prevent the wines from aging well.

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