MOREY SAINT DENIS
2021 1er Cru Faconnières Domaine Stéphane Magnien
Grapes | Pinot Noir |
Colour | Red |
Origin | France, Burgundy |
District | Côte d'Or |
Sub-district | Côte de Nuits |
Village | Morey Saint Denis |
Classification | 1er Cru |
ABV | 12.5% |
Vineyard | Faconnières |
(from a .57 ha holding). A perfumed, airy and cool nose is comprised by aromas of spice, plum and various dark berries. Somewhat surprisingly, the texture of the medium-bodied flavors is both more refined and more mineral-driven even though the notably longer finish is more structured. Lovely and this is built to repay at least a decade of keeping. Drinking range: 2031 - Rating: 90-93 L&S (Jan 2023)
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Wonderful supple touch again. good colour, the fruit here a little darker, a little less floral (than the Chambolle Sentiers), and more about dark juice and succulent richness. For Stéphane this is the end of the same vein of terroir that is found in his 'Grains Fins' cuvée. Drinking range: 2026 - 2037L&S (Oct 2022)
The old vines are healthy but the younger plot will need replanting soon for rootstock issues. A fine rich purple colour. The nose shows an impressive depth of fruit. Much cleaner and with a limestone feel. Intense raspberry with some fresher alpine strawberry notes, really quite nuanced at the finish, just the right acidity and fine boned tannins. Very promising Drinking range: 2026 - 2033 Rating: 92-95 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy (Nov 2022)
Domaine Stéphane Magnien
Stéphane's is a small domaine, a mere 4.5 hectares, with one full hectare of that in regional wine - Passetoutgrains and Bourgogne - but it is blessed with two Grands Crus and also a long history of not messing with nature. No pesticides have ever been used on this land, and the plants are nearly all the old 'Pinot tordu' - twisted Pinot with its gnarly stems which are less vigorous than the modern clones and said by many to make wines with more finesse.
Stéphane chaptalizes only to extend fermentations - these are wines which his father Jean-Paul used to describe as 'sage en alcool' - from 12 to 13% - the old vines do not make much alcohol. Wood use is also discreet, even though Stéphane has increased the proportion, he does not exceed 50% new wood on the Grands Crus, 25% on the Premiers Crus and on the village appellations, 15% new wood for one year only, then all into older barrels.
Stéphane says that he aims to make wines with more richness than his father's, 'but not black angular wines which have less relief. Wines which leave your mouth clean and clear, refreshed and revived and, above all, wanting another glass'. He destems 100%, gives the grapes a six-day maceration, then a classical fermentation with just two pigeages, and a little remontage (pumping over) at the end.
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