MOREY SAINT DENIS
2021 1er Cru Les Loups Domaine des Lambrays
(from a .70 ha total of the 1ers La Riotte, Clos Sorbé and Le Village plus a small proportion of young vines Clos des Lambrays; 50% whole cluster). An overtly floral-suffused nose speaks of red cherry, raspberry and a hint of herbal tea. The supple, caressing and succulent medium-bodied flavors possess a lovely sense of underlying tension on the lightly stony, focused and lingering finale. Drinking range: 2029 - Rating: 90-92 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2023)
75cl bottles (case of 6)
* This is a pre-shipment/primeur offer. All orders are accepted under the TERMS of this offer which differ from the terms of the rest of the site.
The 2021 Morey-Saint-Denis Les Loups 1er Cru contains half Premier Crus (La Riotte and Clos Sorbé) and the other half from younger vines in Clos des Lambrays planted in 2000 that is likely to enter the Grant Vin next year. Including 50% whole bunches, it has an attractive dark berry fruit and subtle briny scents on the nose. Good intensity. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins, a mixture of red and black fruit with a very precise finish enhanced by the stem addition. This is a much more serious wine than the Village Cru. Drinking range: 2025 - 2040 Rating: 91-93 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2023)
Domaine des Lambrays
The 'Clos' consists of 8.66 hectares of land enclosed by a wall in which there is the original milestone marking its founding in 1365, confirmed in the records of the Abbaye de Citeaux (those monks knew where to place a vineyard). The Clos owes much of its current fame to the nineteenth and twentieth century proprietors who reconstituted it after the fragmentation of ownership which followed the French revolution. Despite always having been considered a Grand Cru site, the Clos was in fact classified Premier Cru in the original 1936 appellations contrôlées.
The Rodier family which owned it from the 1930s fought to regain its Grand cru status, with eventual success only in 1981, when it became the last of the thirty-three Grands Crus of Burgundy, although by then it had passed to the Saier family. Recently under the benign ownership of the Günther Freund and his family, who gave a very free hand to régisseur Thierry Brouin, who had been employed by their predecessor Rolland Pelletier de Chambure, the quality of the wines here has pushed up again. In 2014 it was bought by the LVMH group.
It has been all rather quick change here as Jacques Devauge has taken over here after a short interregnum under Boris Champy. The legacy of Thierry Brouin can still be felt, Jacques decribing him as having been 'clairvoyant' in his approach to the domaine, which has set it up well to deal with challenges of warmer vintages. Jacques seems set to take this estate onward - 'every domaine has to challenge itself to do better', he says. 2019 marks the second year being fully organic - if all goes well they will be certified after another two.
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