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MOREY SAINT DENIS

2021 'Petites Noix' 1er Cru Domaine Stéphane Magnien

EN PRIMEUR
Pinot NoirRedFrance,BurgundyCôte d'OrCôte de NuitsMorey Saint Denis1er Cru 12.5%

The usual assemblage of Gruenchers, Clos Solon and Clos Bouley. Tasted as always after the Faconnières, and it's harder to get to at this stage as usual - there's the structure of a wine from deep clay, with structured tannins, but also limestone strictness that plays around the edges, while the expression is dark deep and mysterious - it's not really playing yet. 20% whole bunches and no pigeage as two of these parcels have a lot of clay and can make a very structured wine. Drinking range: 2028 - 2040L&S (Oct 2022)

75cl bottles (case of 6)

* This is a pre-shipment/primeur offer. All orders are accepted under the TERMS of this offer which differ from the terms of the rest of the site.

(from a .26 ha parcel in Les Gruenchers and another .12 ha in Clos Baulet; in 2021, the Monts Luisants was added as well; 20% whole clusters). Moderate reduction brushes the fruit to the background. More interesting are the sleek, delicious and tension-filled medium weight flavors that exude a subtle minerality on the less refined but slightly more complex, youthfully austere and sneaky long finale. Patience also required. Drinking range: 2031 - Rating: 90-93 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2023)

Stéphane upped the whole bunch proportion to 20% this year as it reduces acidity. He also added in the small amount of fruit he could pick from the Monts Luisants. Still a deepish colour. The nose is for him a bit vegetal, for me possibly bacterial. Spicy from the stems but also something wilder to watch. Otherwise a darker plummy fruit and medium acidity Rating: 87-90 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy  (Nov 2022)

Stéphane's is a small domaine, a mere 4.5 hectares, with one full hectare of that in regional wine - Passetoutgrains and Bourgogne - but it is blessed with two Grands Crus and also a long history of not messing with nature. No pesticides have ever been used on this land, and the plants are nearly all the old 'Pinot tordu' - twisted Pinot with its gnarly stems which are less vigorous than the modern clones and said by many to make wines with more finesse.

Stéphane chaptalizes only to extend fermentations - these are wines which his father Jean-Paul used to describe as 'sage en alcool' - from 12 to 13% - the old vines do not make much alcohol. Wood use is also discreet, even though Stéphane has increased the proportion, he does not exceed 50% new wood on the Grands Crus, 25% on the Premiers Crus and on the village appellations, 15% new wood for one year only, then all into older barrels.

Stéphane says that he aims to make wines with more richness than his father's, 'but not black angular wines which have less relief. Wines which leave your mouth clean and clear, refreshed and revived and, above all, wanting another glass'. He destems 100%, gives the grapes a six-day maceration, then a classical fermentation with just two pigeages, and a little remontage (pumping over) at the end.

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