2015 POMMARD 1er Cru Rugiens Domaine de Courcel, Lea & Sandeman

POMMARD

2021 1er Cru Rugiens Domaine de Courcel

Grapes Pinot Noir
Colour Red
Origin France, Burgundy
District Côte d'Or
Sub-district Côte de Beaune
Village Pommard
Classification 1er Cru
Vineyard Rugiens

Fully ripe and very elegant. It's supple and fresh and more lifted than the Epenots (as usual). Terrific tannic finale is long and long and long. Patience required. Drinking range: 2033 - 2045 L&S (Oct 2022)


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(from a 1.07 ha parcel in Rugiens-Hauts). This is aromatically similar to the Epenots though the fruit is perhaps just a bit cooler. The more mineral-driven and precise flavors flash focused power on the muscular, sappy and balanced finish that goes on and on. This too possesses excellent delineation and is a wine that is sufficiently compact to require every bit of a decade to become more approachable. In a word, impressive. Drinking range: 2023 - 2033 Rating: 92-95 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Apr 2023)

This hails from a large (1.07 hectares), old vine parcel with soils ranging from marl at the top to deep, red clay at the bottom. The result is the structure expected of Rugiens with more perfumed flair. Smelling of garden blooms, cherries and balsamic, there is also a reverberating minerality that pushes into the vigorous finish. Rating: 95 Christy Canterbury MW - TimAtkin.com (Feb 2023)

This classic Pommard has deep plum and cassis fruit aromas scented with tobacco, cedar, and spice. The texture is massive, with abundant extract, firm tannins, and fresh acidity. The grapes come from just over a hectare at mid-slope, where the soil transitions from white marl to deeper clay soils. They are fermented as whole clusters with vigorous punching down and will age ­eventually for nearly two years in cask. This will take several years to open fully, but it will be magnificent in time, and should live for decades, even in the 2021 vintage. Drinking range: 2027 - 2055 Rating: 95 Charles Curtis MW, Decanter.com (Nov 2022)

Domaine de Courcel

One of the great domaines of Pommard, with a 400 year history in the same family. The domaine produces a small amount of Bourgogne Chardonnay, a completely over-performing Bourgogne Rouge, a village Pommard (Vaumuriens, 1.44 ha), but the biggest part of the domaine consists of four great Premier Cru expressions of the terroir of Pommard, Fremiers (0.79 ha), Croix Noires (0.58 ha), Grand Clos des Epenots (4.89 ha) and Rugiens (1.07 ha). These represent a very different style to the Clos des Épeneaux of Comte Armand, for example. Yves Confuron, the régisseur, describes the difference between the two top wines by saying that the Grand Clos is 'terreux' while the Rugiens is 'aérien'.

The aim is to limit yields to around 25hl/ha, to attain optimum ripeness. The vines are ploughed, and pruned carefully to suit each one, then de-budded in spring and green-harvested in August to keep the fruit load balanced. Following Yves' usual practice the harvest is late and the vatting is long - usually around a month, with a cold maceration leading into a cool fermentation, and a long post-fermentation soak under the protection of the carbon dioxide given off by the fermentation. The wines are developed in barrel over 21 to 23 months, with a third of the barrels being replaced each year. After racking they are bottled without fining or filtration.

The domaine produces wines with astonishing depth and density that still retain the freshness, just like Yves' own wines at Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot. They are classic vins de garde and patience is advised - and will be amply rewarded.

Available In Bond:
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