POUILLY FUISSÉ
2021 1er Cru Sur la Roche Domaine Barraud
Slightly paler than the Crays, this is all in finesse. Slightly leaner too - a blade-like slipping wet stone and rock juice. It's immensely attractive without being as 'large' as the Crays. Drinking range: 2025 - 2035L&S (Oct 2022)
75cl bottles (case of 6)
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An elegant and markedly floral-suffused nose features airy aromas of essence of white orchard fruit, anise and citrus confit. There is excellent richness thanks to the impressive density of sappy dry extract that adds materially to the sense of volume of the medium-bodied flavors that also display fine length on the equally compact, serious and built-to-age finale. While this could also use better depth, the potential seems indisputable. Drinking range: 2028 - Rating: 93 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Oct 2023)
Cask sample. More wood evident on the nose, a touch of orange blossom and zesty lemon. Appealing and plenty of purity. With a fine balance of sweetness of fruit, weight and oak this really shouts Pouilly-Fuissé, with the premier-cru status shown by the fine structure, mineral finish and length. Drinking range: 2025 - 2032 Rating: 16.5 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2023)
Domaine Barraud
We still see Daniel Barraud when we visit but today his children Julien and Anaïs are at the helm here now. They have vineyards in Vergisson that are mostly high up under the famous rock (Vergisson lies between the two dramatic cliffs of the rocks of Solutré and Vergisson). The vineyards here are significantly higher than those of Fuissé, and are consequently later-ripening, and the wines often have a more solid structure - but they each have their own distinct characters, from the Puligny-like directness of the La Roche to the fat richness of the 'en Buland', via the mineral force of the Crays.
All the wines are made keeping close to the tenets of bio-dynamics - not for the sake of it - but because over the generations experience has taught them that these principles really are the best way forward - as such they only ever bottle on a waning moon. All the wines see some barrel ageing apart from the Chaintré, which is aged in foudre (2/3) and tank.
As Allen Meadows wrote on www.Burghound.com 'I have said this before, but I will say it again: no one makes better wine in the Mâconnais than Barraud. There are a few domaines that produce wines that are sometimes just as good, ... but none of them surpasses the quality he consistently produces. If you aren’t familiar with the wines, you owe it to yourself and your pocketbook to check them out.'
With the 2022 releases this 11 HA domaine is now officially certified organic. Formalising the way they have been working for years.
The Barrauds have four vineyards that have been upgraded to Premier Cru status: 'En France', 'Les Crays', 'Sur la Roche', and la Verchère, although this last one will change its name to 'La Maréchaude' but retaining the parcel name of Verchère too. It's one of those oddities of such classifications that the vineyard which has consistently produced the Barraud's best wine for all the years that we have known them, 'En Buland', is not classified Premier Cru status as it faces north - this is electric in 2022.
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