PULIGNY MONTRACHET
2021 1er Cru La Garenne Domaine Joseph Colin
This too has a level of sweet fruit - just a touch, like all the others, but it puts a smile on its face and you imagine some clear bright sunlight. It's also rock-juice mineral, supple in feel but glassily fine. Lots of acidity carrying the length. Drinking range: 2025 - 2035L&S (Oct 2022)
75cl bottles (case of 6)
* This is a pre-shipment/primeur offer. All orders are accepted under the TERMS of this offer which differ from the terms of the rest of the site.
A wonderfully pure and airy nose of green apple and lemon-lime is complemented by hints of wet stone and crushed fennel. There is excellent cut to the tension-filled medium weight flavors that also flash good minerality on the chiseled, balanced and lingering finale. Good stuff fashioned in an understated style. Drinking range: 2028 - Rating: 91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jun 2023)
Fresh mid yellow. Ripe apples on the nose, a little heavy underneath, could use freshening up. Surprisingly deep on the palate. One of his three plots has notably more depth of soil. Delicious ripeness of fruit at the finish, well balanced. Stony plots on the rocks were the ones which frosted. Drinking range: 2025 - 2030 Rating: 90-93 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy (Oct 2022)
Domaine Joseph Colin
Joseph Colin is one of the four children of Marc Colin (the others being Pierre-Yves, Damien and Caroline), who had a large domaine with vines in Saint Aubin, Santenay, Chassagne and Puligny. Pierre-Yves left the family domaine in 2005 and after that Joseph was an important member of the team there. After making a token 1800 or so bottles on his own account in 2016, he started in earnest with 2017, with seven hectares of vines, from which he makes an astonishing nineteen different cuvées.
Most of the vines he has in Saint Aubin are young, but by limiting bunches to six or seven per vine, he manages to control the yields. With plenty of time to learn his craft at Domaine Marc Colin, he has developed into a confident winemaker. He experimented with sulphur levels in the wines at the family domaine, so coming to his current view that the wines should be left the longest time possible without added S02, perhaps adding some at racking, but if he feels there's still enough C02 after racking, he will not even add any at that stage, so as to develop 'wine at its purest', but he is keen to say also that he has no standard recipe - he will adapt to each wine. In 2020 he again used no S02 until just before bottling, but he's clear that if there's some botrytis, for example, he will add it earlier. Generally nothing is either fined or filtered. He is very aware of biodynamics, but says that the tides are more important than just the phase of the moon, and that he places less importance on whether it's a fruit or flower day - for him the important thing is not to manipulate a wine when it's tasting good - you must do it when it's not showing well.
Joseph is a very bright new prospect for lovers of precise, pure white Burgundies with fresh acidity and crystalline definition.
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