GREYTOWN OLD VINES SYRAH-CABERNET
2022 Joshua Cooper
| Grapes | Syrah, Cab Sauv |
| Colour | Red |
| Origin | Australia, Victoria |
| District | Heathcote |
| Sub-district | Greytown |
| ABV | 14% |
At first, some green notes rise – a touch of spearmint and eucalyptus with a lime-oil oak flavour but with a decent airing, they fade into the background while the gorgeous dark fruit comes to the fore. Plus, some pepper and Chinese five-spice with a touch of lavender; lots in this and it constantly changes in the glass. It builds and expands with more savoury inflections. Fuller bodied with textural, slightly gritty tannins and it does finish on a high. Rating: 95 Jane Faulkner, Halliday Wine Companion (Aug 2024)
| 12 | ||
*Case price discount: Mix any 12 bottles of wine (or 9 litre equivalent) or 6 bottles of Champagne, Spirits, Sweet Wine or Fortified (4.5 litres) to get the discounted 'case price' for each bottle.
Syrah with around 5% Cabernet. Viticulture: Lutte raisonée/sustainable, no synthetic fungicides or herbicides. The Greytown Vineyard was planted in the northeastern corner of the (now) Heathcote region in the 1950s by European migrants, importantly planting was carried out in the traditional manner, sans irrigation and as a field blend. In this case Syrah vines interspersed with an unknown proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon. The aim being to harvest the site as a whole, capturing a more nuanced expression of place and season. Amongst the oldest plantings in the area the vines have found a happy home in the deep alluvial soils. Stylistically inspired by the Syrah-Cabernet blends of the South of France, especially one of my favourite wines - Domaine Trevallon. Once hand harvested the fruit was entirely de-stemmed, then partially foot crushed before transfer to open fermenters where it remained for three weeks. The must was allowed to soak until natural fermentation commenced and was then extracted with a combination pumping over delestage and pigeage before basket pressing. Elevage took place in a combination of one year old Stockinger thick staved 600l (30%), Spanish stoneware jars and seasoned thin staved Bordeaux coopered barriques for 12 months, before four months in stainless steal after assemblage. The only addition to the wine is a small dose of sulphur. Glistening purple, the two varieties combine wonderfully lending the pepper, spice and plushness of Syrah's fruit, with the strictness and refinement of Cabernet Sauvignon. Aromas of cracked black pepper, sweet new leather, baking spices, lavender, thyme, and a sprig of mint fill the glass. Australian garrigue. Sweet and fleshy black cherry fruits are ensconced in layers of fine pliant tannin, with the firm backbone and sense of freshness and refinement only Cabernet Sauvignon can bring. A wine entirely unique to its place and landscape, old vines, co-planted with great foresight in a cooler pocket of the region. Please decant well prior to drinking, or cellar for as long as you like.
Joshua Cooper
Josh Cooper was brought up on the Cobaw Ridge wine estate in the Macedon ranges, a cool spot north of Melbourne. However as a winemaker, Josh is 'ploughing his own furrow' (as Huon Hooke put it).
After extensive travel and experience at vineyards as far afield as Domaine JJ Confuron and Chablis, but also closer to home with Yabby Lake and Hanging Rock, Josh started in 2012 by specialising in Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the Macedon ranges and nearby areas. He has now been led by his admiration of some of the great old 'claret' styles of the 70s and 80s he has tasted, to try his hand at Cabernet as well, including buying fruit from the oldest block (planted in 1970) at Balgownie Vineyards in Bendigo.
A low-intervention winemaker sourcing fruit from organic or biodynamic vineyards where possible, Josh uses SO2 but nothing else, to make whites which are pure and racy (one year in barrel with no lees-stirring), but with enough flesh to be gourmand too. The reds are concentrated, aromatically precise and true to their origins, while remaining beautifully balanced and harmonious, drinkable from the off, but with the Cabernets being capable of long aging like the old wines he so admires.
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