Dry Whites
2023 has allowed producers of White Bordeaux to have some great successes this year. 2022 was warm and confounding in how producers were able to make Red wines with some freshness but in White it was just too much and we mostly found quite loose and rich styles. 2023 is, in distinct contrast, a delight. The best White Wines this year are fresh with a lovely brisk lift to them - but there is also a tender weight. A suppleness that makes them quite beguiling in the best examples. For lovers of fine White Wine - these stellar releases are well worth seeking out.
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L&S Recommendations
L&S 'best buy' recommendations are marked with this symbol .
2023 LE PETIT SMITH HAUT LAFITTE Blanc Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 10/6/2024
The 2023 Le Petit Haut Lafitte Blanc is terrific. Airy and vibrant, the 2023 is pure class. Crushed rocks, mint, salt, white pepper and lemon curd are all beautifully lifted. The SauvignonThe 2023 Le Petit Haut Lafitte Blanc is terrific. Airy and vibrant, the 2023 is pure class. Crushed rocks, mint, salt, white pepper and lemon curd are all beautifully lifted. The Sauvignon Blanc-based Petit is very fine in 2023. Drinking range: 2025 - 2033 Rating: 92-94 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (May 2024)
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2023 CHÂTEAU SMITH HAUT LAFITTE BLANC Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 10/6/2024
Distinctive as ever, right at the top of what Pessac Léognan Blanc can deliver. Structured, fleshy white peach and pear, waves of salted cracker and sage, creamy texture, great length, just aDistinctive as ever, right at the top of what Pessac Léognan Blanc can deliver. Structured, fleshy white peach and pear, waves of salted cracker and sage, creamy texture, great length, just a brilliant wine. A buy. Drinking range: 2025 - 2038 Rating: 98 Jane Anson, www.janeanson.com (May 2024)
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2023 PAVILLON BLANC du Château Margaux
Release date: 6/6/2024
The 2023 Pavillon Blanc from Château Margaux, harvested during the morning hours of the August 23-30 heatwave, possesses a deep, complex bouquet of spring flowers, lemon oil, ripe orchard fruits,The 2023 Pavillon Blanc from Château Margaux, harvested during the morning hours of the August 23-30 heatwave, possesses a deep, complex bouquet of spring flowers, lemon oil, ripe orchard fruits, lemongrass and sweet gooseberries, followed by a medium to full-bodied, round and concentrated palate that's animated by lively acids, concluding with a long, taut, delicately phenolic finish. This bottling amounts to only 45% of the entire crop, the rest being relegated to a second wine. Drinking range: 2025 - 2055 Rating: 93-95 Yohan Castaing, www.robertparker.com (Apr 2024)
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2023 CHÂTEAU LATOUR MARTILLAC Blanc Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 29/5/2024
The 2023 Latour-Martillac Blanc is a tense, steel dry white. Lemon peel, chalk, white pepper, sage, mint and crushed rocks lend brightness and energy. I like the vibrancy here, but I just wish thereThe 2023 Latour-Martillac Blanc is a tense, steel dry white. Lemon peel, chalk, white pepper, sage, mint and crushed rocks lend brightness and energy. I like the vibrancy here, but I just wish there was a bit more mid-palate creaminess. At this stage, the Blanc is a bit austere. Tasted two times. Drinking range: 2027 - 2035 Rating: 89-91 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (May 2024)
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2023 ARUMS DE LAGRANGE Château Lagrange
Release date: 23/5/2024
A blend of 85% Sauvignon Blanc and 15% Sémillon, the 2023 Les Arums de Lagrange evokes aromas of confit citrus, herbs, white flowers and grapefruit, followed by a medium-bodied, fresh and livelyA blend of 85% Sauvignon Blanc and 15% Sémillon, the 2023 Les Arums de Lagrange evokes aromas of confit citrus, herbs, white flowers and grapefruit, followed by a medium-bodied, fresh and lively palate that segues into a mouthwatering, delicate finish. Despite this varietal-inflected style, this is a great effort. It has a pH of 3.2 and 13.3% alcohol. Drinking range: 2024 - 2030 Rating: 87-89 Yohan Castaing, www.robertparker.com (Apr 2024)
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2023 DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER Blanc Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 21/5/2024
This is layered and complex with an impressive mineral tension and depth. Medium- to full-bodied, very long and persistent. It has oyster shell, crushed stone and citrus peel character with racyThis is layered and complex with an impressive mineral tension and depth. Medium- to full-bodied, very long and persistent. It has oyster shell, crushed stone and citrus peel character with racy acidity coming through, adding to its length and tension. Very long and firm at the end with a backbone of fine tannins for a white. 70% sauvignon blanc and 30% semillon. Rating: 97-98 James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com (Apr 2024)
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2023 CHÂTEAU SUDUIRAUT Vieilles Vignes Grand Vin Sec
Release date: 17/5/2024
The 2023 Grand Vin Blanc Sec Vieilles Vignes is superb. Lemon confit, marzipan, white flowers, sage, mint and dried flowers all run through this super-expressive, savory dry white. There's realThe 2023 Grand Vin Blanc Sec Vieilles Vignes is superb. Lemon confit, marzipan, white flowers, sage, mint and dried flowers all run through this super-expressive, savory dry white. There's real phenolic intensity to the Vieilles Vignes—a rich, deep white for the dinner table. Pretty floral top notes and a kick of tropical fruit brighten the finish. Drinking range: 2025 - 2035 Rating: 94-96 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (May 2024)
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2023 CHÂTEAU DE FIEUZAL Blanc Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 14/5/2024
This is very focused, with good energy and nervy acidity. Medium-bodied with vibrant citrus fruit and crunchy minerality. Firm and tense finish.This is very focused, with good energy and nervy acidity. Medium-bodied with vibrant citrus fruit and crunchy minerality. Firm and tense finish. Rating: 93-94 James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com (Apr 2024)
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2023 BLANC DE LYNCH BAGES Château Lynch Bages
Release date: 14/5/2024
This is 81% Sauvignon Blanc, higher than usual which reflects a good yield for this variety, with 11% Semillon and 8% Muscadelle, the harvest starting August 31st and continuing for one week. It isThis is 81% Sauvignon Blanc, higher than usual which reflects a good yield for this variety, with 11% Semillon and 8% Muscadelle, the harvest starting August 31st and continuing for one week. It is vinified 80% in oak barrels, one-third new, with 20% in stainless steel. After that there was no racking, with less bâtonnage. The wine was bottled three weeks ago. A ripe and exotic nose, of melon, confit pear, acacia and crushed chalk. This continues on the palate, although it feels rather softly framed, with lightly confit fruits over a grained phenolic grip and fresh acidity. It finishes solid and grippy, and given the acidity and early picking here I would have hoped for a little more definition and zip. The alcohol is 13.2% on analysis. Rating: 90 Chris Kissack, www.thewinedoctor.com (May 2024)
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2023 CHÂTEAU LA MISSION HAUT BRION BLANC Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 14/5/2024
The 2023 La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc is a very soft-textured white, its lovely floral and mineral notes very much front and center. Gentle touches of pear, jasmine, white pepper and mint lift fromThe 2023 La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc is a very soft-textured white, its lovely floral and mineral notes very much front and center. Gentle touches of pear, jasmine, white pepper and mint lift from the glass in a wine that impresses with its understatement and class. Aeration fills out the mid-palate as the Sémillon begins to reveal its breadth. Drinking range: 2026 - 2038 Rating: 92-94 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (May 2024)
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2023 CHÂTEAU HAUT BRION BLANC Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 14/5/2024
A bit shy, the 2023 Haut-Brion Blanc exhibits aromas of lemon, lemon oil, crisp stone fruits and spring flowers, followed by a medium to full-bodied, dense and fleshy palate that's round and layered,A bit shy, the 2023 Haut-Brion Blanc exhibits aromas of lemon, lemon oil, crisp stone fruits and spring flowers, followed by a medium to full-bodied, dense and fleshy palate that's round and layered, with chalky underlying structure and a long, mineral finish. It's a blend of 58% Sauvignon Blanc and 42% Sémillon. Drinking range: 2025 - 2055 Rating: 93-95 Yohan Castaing, www.robertparker.com (Apr 2024)
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2023 CHÂTEAU MALARTIC LAGRAVIÈRE Blanc Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 7/5/2024
The grand vin, which takes 43% of the crop, is a blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon, all vinified in oak barrels. This has a really enticing nose, clearly rather saline, with a focus onThe grand vin, which takes 43% of the crop, is a blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon, all vinified in oak barrels. This has a really enticing nose, clearly rather saline, with a focus on citrus fruits, cherimoya and crushed gravel, traced with reduction, not entirely unlike a young, sandy-terroir Savennières (I thought the same on a second taste, too). The palate really takes it up a notch or two compared to the second wine, with a real sense of sinew and presence on the palate, with bitter citrus elements, melon, smoke, matchstick and grip, leading to a finish riven with phenolics and fresh acidity. This is really precisely drawn, with substance, sinew and drive. A good result in this vintage, long and incisive in the finish. This will develop well. Tasted twice. The alcohol is 13.19%. Rating: 93-95 Chris Kissack, www.thewinedoctor.com (Apr 2024)
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2023 AILE D'ARGENT Château Mouton Rothschild
Release date: 6/5/2024
50 Sauvignon Blanc, 44.5 Semillon, 5 Sauvignon Gris, 0.5 Muscadelle: 45% new oak for 9 months: 13.5% alc: 3.20 pH: Harvested 29 August – 6 September This is a wonderfully magical wine, and while50 Sauvignon Blanc, 44.5 Semillon, 5 Sauvignon Gris, 0.5 Muscadelle: 45% new oak for 9 months: 13.5% alc: 3.20 pH: Harvested 29 August – 6 September This is a wonderfully magical wine, and while I understand that some of the Sauvignon Blanc missed the cut because it was a little too exuberant, the final assemblage has a halo of white flowers and silver needle tea over a teasing, fleetingly luxurious, but ultimately mineral, talcy and keen-edged core. When one pops back to the glass, there is more and more to discover – intricate hues of lemon and lime, jasmine and pittosporum and it stops short of stone fruit and tropical notes, thank goodness! A handful of top-class whites were made in 2023, and Aile d'Argent is up there with the finest. Rating: 18.5 Matthew Jukes www.matthewjukes.com (May 2024)
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2023 PAVILLON BLANC Second Vin Château Margaux
This is quite a big Pavillon Blanc with sliced pineapple, ripe apple, lemon and stone. It's full-bodied, layered and phenolic with a ripe sense to it, but then it’s citrusy and salty. Like freshThis is quite a big Pavillon Blanc with sliced pineapple, ripe apple, lemon and stone. It's full-bodied, layered and phenolic with a ripe sense to it, but then it’s citrusy and salty. Like fresh oysters. Reminds me of vintages from the 1980s, but with more freshness and clarity. 100% sauvignon blanc. Rating: 96-97 James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com (Apr 2024)
In Bond