Dry Whites
2023 has allowed producers of White Bordeaux to have some great successes this year. 2022 was warm and confounding in how producers were able to make Red wines with some freshness but in White it was just too much and we mostly found quite loose and rich styles. 2023 is, in distinct contrast, a delight. The best White Wines this year are fresh with a lovely brisk lift to them - but there is also a tender weight. A suppleness that makes them quite beguiling in the best examples. For lovers of fine White Wine - these stellar releases are well worth seeking out.
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L&S Recommendations
L&S 'best buy' recommendations are marked with this symbol .
2023 LE PETIT SMITH HAUT LAFITTE Blanc Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 10/6/2024
As usual, a blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Sémillon matured 50% in new oak, the 2023 Le Petit Haut Lafitte Blanc offers up aromas of spring flowers, citrus, lime tree leaves and menthol.As usual, a blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Sémillon matured 50% in new oak, the 2023 Le Petit Haut Lafitte Blanc offers up aromas of spring flowers, citrus, lime tree leaves and menthol. Medium-bodied, satiny and round, it’s satiny with a fleshy core of fruit, bright acids and an elegant, ethereal finish enhanced by gastronomic bitterness. It will offer a broad drinking window. Drinking range: 2025 - 2040 Rating: 90-93 Yohan Castaing, www.robertparker.com (Apr 2024)
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2023 CHÂTEAU SMITH HAUT LAFITTE BLANC Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 10/6/2024
Aromas of white fruits, crisp orchard fruits, spices, smoke, spring flowers and pear introduce the 2023 Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc, a medium to full-bodied, layered and textured wine with a fleshy coreAromas of white fruits, crisp orchard fruits, spices, smoke, spring flowers and pear introduce the 2023 Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc, a medium to full-bodied, layered and textured wine with a fleshy core of fruit and racy acids, concluding with a mineral, fresh and long finish highlighted by delicate notes of thyme and garrigue. Comprising 50% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Sémillon and 5% Sauvignon Gris and matured in 50% new oak, this blend is among the finest white wines produced at this address. Drinking range: 2025 - 2045 Rating: 94-96 Yohan Castaing, www.robertparker.com (Apr 2024)
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2023 PAVILLON BLANC du Château Margaux
Release date: 6/6/2024
White peach flesh on the opening gives an opulent start that quickly narrows inwards to flint and steel. An exceptional white wine, with sculpted charm, showcasing citrus, lime zest, green apple,White peach flesh on the opening gives an opulent start that quickly narrows inwards to flint and steel. An exceptional white wine, with sculpted charm, showcasing citrus, lime zest, green apple, anis and sage. Harvest August 23 to 30, yields 37hl/h compared to 15h/h in 2022. Drinking range: 2026 - 2040 Rating: 96 Jane Anson, www.janeanson.com (May 2024)
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2023 CHÂTEAU LATOUR MARTILLAC Blanc Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 29/5/2024
Lime juice, citrus fruit, fresh peach, kiwi, liqourice and slate character, good grip and lift. Unfussy and bright.Lime juice, citrus fruit, fresh peach, kiwi, liqourice and slate character, good grip and lift. Unfussy and bright. Drinking range: 2024 - 2032 Rating: 92 Jane Anson, www.janeanson.com (May 2024)
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2023 ARUMS DE LAGRANGE Château Lagrange
Release date: 23/5/2024
A blend of 85% Sauvignon Blanc and 15% Sémillon, the 2023 Les Arums de Lagrange evokes aromas of confit citrus, herbs, white flowers and grapefruit, followed by a medium-bodied, fresh and livelyA blend of 85% Sauvignon Blanc and 15% Sémillon, the 2023 Les Arums de Lagrange evokes aromas of confit citrus, herbs, white flowers and grapefruit, followed by a medium-bodied, fresh and lively palate that segues into a mouthwatering, delicate finish. Despite this varietal-inflected style, this is a great effort. It has a pH of 3.2 and 13.3% alcohol. Drinking range: 2024 - 2030 Rating: 87-89 Yohan Castaing, www.robertparker.com (Apr 2024)
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2023 DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER Blanc Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 21/5/2024
Got to be the most consisent of all Pessac Léognan whites, sets out its stall immediately with fresh acidities and fennel spice, giving a kick and lift, classically nuanced and structured. WhiteGot to be the most consisent of all Pessac Léognan whites, sets out its stall immediately with fresh acidities and fennel spice, giving a kick and lift, classically nuanced and structured. White pear, sage, liqourice root, savoury as all hell, and so moriesh. Working with Stéphane Derenocourt since 2018 on the whites (longer on the reds). Drinking range: 2025 - 2040 Rating: 96 Jane Anson, www.janeanson.com (May 2024)
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2023 CHÂTEAU SUDUIRAUT Vieilles Vignes Grand Vin Sec
Release date: 17/5/2024
Real density to this old-vine white with dried-apple, peach and stone character. It’s full and dense but always vivid. I love the phenolics here. Fantastic dry white. From 40- to 60-year-old vines.Real density to this old-vine white with dried-apple, peach and stone character. It’s full and dense but always vivid. I love the phenolics here. Fantastic dry white. From 40- to 60-year-old vines. 57% semillon and 43% sauvignon blanc. Rating: 95-96 James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com (Apr 2024)
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2023 CHÂTEAU DE FIEUZAL Blanc Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 14/5/2024
This is very focused, with good energy and nervy acidity. Medium-bodied with vibrant citrus fruit and crunchy minerality. Firm and tense finish.This is very focused, with good energy and nervy acidity. Medium-bodied with vibrant citrus fruit and crunchy minerality. Firm and tense finish. Rating: 93-94 James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com (Apr 2024)
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2023 BLANC DE LYNCH BAGES Château Lynch Bages
Release date: 14/5/2024
White peach and pear, green apple and citrus here, reserved but with plenty of grilled cumin and sage spice, and this is a wine that tends to deepen over the year following bottling (it is already inWhite peach and pear, green apple and citrus here, reserved but with plenty of grilled cumin and sage spice, and this is a wine that tends to deepen over the year following bottling (it is already in bottle but to be released in September 2024). 3.12ph, 50% new oak, aged on lees. Drinking range: 2024 - 2024 Rating: 92 Jane Anson, www.janeanson.com (May 2024)
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2023 CHÂTEAU LA MISSION HAUT BRION BLANC Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 14/5/2024
The 2023 La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc is driven by the Sauvignon Blanc (65%) on the nose: Granny Smith apples, kiwi fruit, slate and light spicy aromas. There’s very fine delineation, but I err towardThe 2023 La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc is driven by the Sauvignon Blanc (65%) on the nose: Granny Smith apples, kiwi fruit, slate and light spicy aromas. There’s very fine delineation, but I err toward the more nuanced Haut-Brion Blanc. The palate is lively on the entry with a touch of white pepper, very good tension and ample energy. Conference pear mixes with melon and grassy notes toward the finish. This will provide immediate pleasure over the next 20 years, though Haut-Brion Blanc has the intellectual heft. Drinking range: 2027 - 2052 Rating: 93-95 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Apr 2024)
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2023 CHÂTEAU HAUT BRION BLANC Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 14/5/2024
The 2023 Haut-Brion Blanc is a quiet, restrained white. Pear, mint, white pepper and crushed rocks are all beautifully sketched, its mineral character emerging with time. The 2023 is not an obviousThe 2023 Haut-Brion Blanc is a quiet, restrained white. Pear, mint, white pepper and crushed rocks are all beautifully sketched, its mineral character emerging with time. The 2023 is not an obvious wine, initially quite aromatic but less expressive on the palate. The long, sustained finish takes things to another level. Complex and dynamic, the 2023 grows over time, hinting at an exceptionally brilliant future. Drinking range: 2028 - 2043 Rating: 93-96 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (May 2024)
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2023 CHÂTEAU MALARTIC LAGRAVIÈRE Blanc Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 7/5/2024
The grand vin, which takes 43% of the crop, is a blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon, all vinified in oak barrels. This has a really enticing nose, clearly rather saline, with a focus onThe grand vin, which takes 43% of the crop, is a blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon, all vinified in oak barrels. This has a really enticing nose, clearly rather saline, with a focus on citrus fruits, cherimoya and crushed gravel, traced with reduction, not entirely unlike a young, sandy-terroir Savennières (I thought the same on a second taste, too). The palate really takes it up a notch or two compared to the second wine, with a real sense of sinew and presence on the palate, with bitter citrus elements, melon, smoke, matchstick and grip, leading to a finish riven with phenolics and fresh acidity. This is really precisely drawn, with substance, sinew and drive. A good result in this vintage, long and incisive in the finish. This will develop well. Tasted twice. The alcohol is 13.19%. Rating: 93-95 Chris Kissack, www.thewinedoctor.com (Apr 2024)
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2023 AILE D'ARGENT Château Mouton Rothschild
Release date: 6/5/2024
The density and beauty to this is so attractive, with a lush and flavorful character, yet it’s neatly framed by acidity and minerally undertones. Lively and salty. Part of the vineyard is onThe density and beauty to this is so attractive, with a lush and flavorful character, yet it’s neatly framed by acidity and minerally undertones. Lively and salty. Part of the vineyard is on limestone, which gives that sea-salt undertone. Savory. Fresh at the end. 50% sauvignon blanc, 44.5% semillon, 5% sauvignon gris and 0.5% muscadelle. Rating: 94-95 James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com (Apr 2024)
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2023 PAVILLON BLANC Second Vin Château Margaux
This is quite a big Pavillon Blanc with sliced pineapple, ripe apple, lemon and stone. It's full-bodied, layered and phenolic with a ripe sense to it, but then it’s citrusy and salty. Like freshThis is quite a big Pavillon Blanc with sliced pineapple, ripe apple, lemon and stone. It's full-bodied, layered and phenolic with a ripe sense to it, but then it’s citrusy and salty. Like fresh oysters. Reminds me of vintages from the 1980s, but with more freshness and clarity. 100% sauvignon blanc. Rating: 96-97 James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com (Apr 2024)
In Bond