Pessac-Léognan
Pessac Léognan was a decent afternoon's work this year. A region with predominantly gravel soils, the intense heat, and hugely variable rainfall required minute by minute evaluation in the vineyard. Guillaume Pouthier of Carmes Haut Brion (sensationally excellent) said it was a year of 'intense involvement' to make a wine that by all accounts has even surpassed their magnificent 2022.
Neighbouring Haut Brion - always the hardest to assess at such a young age here, stands very tall in 2023, as did the much-revamped Château Haut Bailly. Perhaps the highlight was Smith Haut Lafitte, basking in the glow of a recent visit by King Charles III and Queen Camilla, where Charles could see the benefits of the organic viticulture which he had advised owner Florence Cathiard to pursue over a polo match 20 years ago. It is a similar story at Domaine de Chevalier. A thoroughly energising afternoon's tasting and little to fault.
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L&S Recommendations
L&S 'best buy' recommendations are marked with this symbol .
2023 CHÂTEAU HAUT BAILLY Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 11/6/2024
Inky plum colour, this is just so effortless, incredible savoury and moreish, salted cracker and cocoa bean, fine plentiful tannins, with plenty of hidden depths. Feels like a wine that you know youInky plum colour, this is just so effortless, incredible savoury and moreish, salted cracker and cocoa bean, fine plentiful tannins, with plenty of hidden depths. Feels like a wine that you know you will be thrilled to be drinking in years to come. High floral aromatics unwind as you sit with the glass, showing purity of rose bud and liquorice, chalky tannins that are supple with finesse and grain. 50% new oak. Harvest September 11 to 29. Rating: 97 Jane Anson, www.janeanson.com (May 2024)
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2023 CHÂTEAU LE THIL Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 10/6/2024
Intense spice and fennel, high aromatics, bitter chocolate and fennel, with a fresh kick on the finish. 25% new oak. Production of Le Thil will be smaller than for the others because more MerlotIntense spice and fennel, high aromatics, bitter chocolate and fennel, with a fresh kick on the finish. 25% new oak. Production of Le Thil will be smaller than for the others because more Merlot here, so more impact by mildew, harvest September 8 to October 5. Drinking range: 2026 - 2036 Rating: 90 Jane Anson, www.janeanson.com (May 2024)
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2023 LE PETIT SMITH HAUT LAFITTE Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 10/6/2024
This has a big structure of polished tannins that are energetic and punchy. Medium to full body with beautiful blackcurrants, as well as dark tobacco and wet earth. Chewy at the end, but a pointedThis has a big structure of polished tannins that are energetic and punchy. Medium to full body with beautiful blackcurrants, as well as dark tobacco and wet earth. Chewy at the end, but a pointed and focused finish. More structured than 2022. 60% cabernet sauvignon and 40% merlot. From organically grown grapes. Rating: 94-95 James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com (Apr 2024)
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2023 CHÂTEAU SMITH HAUT LAFITTE Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 10/6/2024
The blend is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. This is the highest percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon ever here, beating the 2019 vintage which was about 65%,The blend is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. This is the highest percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon ever here, beating the 2019 vintage which was about 65%, but future vintages are likely to stay around this figure given the way the climate is changing. This took about one-third of the crop, which was just 26 hl/ha. Beautifully pure Cabernet fruit on the nose, with fresh blackcurrants, gorse and tobacco from the oak. The palate feels immediately understated but quickly reveals its sinew, substance, polish and longevity, with a great depth of fruit wrapped around the ribbons of beautifully knit-together tannins. There is drive and precision here, great energy, with deliriously dark fruits. A beautiful finish and length. This is a fabulous wine which transcends any doubts you might have about the potential hidden within this vintage – you just need to know where to look. So impressive. Tasted twice. The alcohol is about 14%. Rating: 95-97 Chris Kissack, www.thewinedoctor.com (Apr 2024)
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2023 CHÂTEAU LES CARMES HAUT BRION Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 5/6/2024
Guillaume Pouthier and his team have once again crafted one of Bordeaux's most unique and characterful wines. Revealing aromas of mulberries and raspberries mingled with notions of vine smoke, orangeGuillaume Pouthier and his team have once again crafted one of Bordeaux's most unique and characterful wines. Revealing aromas of mulberries and raspberries mingled with notions of vine smoke, orange zest, rose petals and spices, the 2023 Les Carmes Haut-Brion is medium to full-bodied, fleshy and concentrated, with a powerful, vibrant and complete mid-palate, concluding with a long, ethereal and mouthwateringly saline finish. Sensual, suave and seamless, its beautifully refined tannins are, analytically, more abundant than even those of the 2022 vintage, yet they are so brilliantly integrated as to be near-imperceptible. This blend of 50% Cabernet Franc, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot is crafted for longevity, though its refined structure will make it surprisingly approachable at an early age. It's maturing 70% in new oak barrels, 20% in 18-hectoliter foudres and 10% in amphorae. A creditable yield of 50 hectoliters per hectare represents a decided agronomic success in what was a challenging growing season. Drinking range: 2025 - 2065 Rating: 97-99 Yohan Castaing, www.robertparker.com (Apr 2024)
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In Bond
In Bond
2023 CHÂTEAU LATOUR MARTILLAC Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 29/5/2024
Composed of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 14% Petit Verdot and matured with 40% in new oak barrels, the 2023 Latour Martillac reveals aromas of dark wild berries, spices, pencil lead andComposed of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 14% Petit Verdot and matured with 40% in new oak barrels, the 2023 Latour Martillac reveals aromas of dark wild berries, spices, pencil lead and mulberries, followed by a medium to full-bodied, concentrated and rich, layered and fleshy palate that segues into a firm, long and mineral finish. The increased proportion of Petit Verdot, a response to mildew affecting the Merlot grapes, imparts a more structured and firm character than seen in previous years. Drinking range: 2025 - 2045 Rating: 90-92 Yohan Castaing, www.robertparker.com (Apr 2024)
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2023 DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 21/5/2024
Plenty of blackberry, blackcurrant, chocolate and flint aromas that follow through to a full body, yet it’s in check and focused with a beautiful framing of fine tannins. The purity of ripe fruit isPlenty of blackberry, blackcurrant, chocolate and flint aromas that follow through to a full body, yet it’s in check and focused with a beautiful framing of fine tannins. The purity of ripe fruit is impressive with cabernet really showing through. 63% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 5% petit verdot and 2% cabernet franc. Rating: 97-98 James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com (Apr 2024)
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In Bond
2023 CHÂTEAU PAPE CLEMENT Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 16/5/2024
The 2023 Pape Clément is one of the most exciting wines I have tasted here in a long time, maybe ever. Intensely aromatic and layered, the 2023 is simply stunning. Dried flowers, mint, licorice,The 2023 Pape Clément is one of the most exciting wines I have tasted here in a long time, maybe ever. Intensely aromatic and layered, the 2023 is simply stunning. Dried flowers, mint, licorice, mocha, cedar and tobacco soar out of the glass. The purity of the flavors is simply mind-blowing. Plum, pomegranate, blood orange and spice build in the glass, adding notable textural richness and resonance. This is the first vintage vinified with indigenous yeasts. Aging takes place in a combination of concrete tanks, ceramic eggs, Clayvers, 400-liter barrels and 225-liter barriques. For readers who want to taste the “new” Bordeaux, this is it. What a wine! Tasted four times. Drinking range: 2030 - 2053 Rating: 95-97 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (May 2024)
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2023 CHÂTEAU DE FIEUZAL Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 14/5/2024
Very impressive freshness and focus here. Bright and succulent, al-dente fruit right upfront and continuing through the whole length of the wine. Notes of forest floor, sea shell and iodine. MediumVery impressive freshness and focus here. Bright and succulent, al-dente fruit right upfront and continuing through the whole length of the wine. Notes of forest floor, sea shell and iodine. Medium body. It has bright acidity that adds tension and a lot of energy. Fine tannins, already beautifully integrated. Rating: 93-94 James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com (Apr 2024)
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2023 LA CHAPELLE DE LA MISSION Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 14/5/2024
The 2023 La Chapelle de La Mission Haut-Brion is a potent yet accessible second wine. Soft contours add to its considerable appeal. Crushed flowers, spice and sweet pipe tobacco lift a core ofThe 2023 La Chapelle de La Mission Haut-Brion is a potent yet accessible second wine. Soft contours add to its considerable appeal. Crushed flowers, spice and sweet pipe tobacco lift a core of red-toned fruit in this racy, sensual Chapelle. Attractive floral and cinnamon notes linger. The 2023 is all charm—I expect it will drink well with minimal cellaring. Drinking range: 2026 - 2043 Rating: 90-92 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (May 2024)
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2023 CHÂTEAU LA MISSION HAUT BRION Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 14/5/2024
The blend has more Cabernet Franc in 2023, much of which would usually go into other wines but in 2023 it was good enough for the grand vin. There is 52.7% Merlot, 29.6% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17.7%The blend has more Cabernet Franc in 2023, much of which would usually go into other wines but in 2023 it was good enough for the grand vin. There is 52.7% Merlot, 29.6% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17.7% Cabernet Franc here, picked from September 6th to October 3rd, with the Merlot all picked before the late September rains. Aromatically this is floral and fresh, with sweet blackcurrant and black cherry fruits, set in a warm and welcoming texture, with plenty of fresh granularity, bright cherry and plum notes to mirror the nose, and a rich frame of fine-boned bit firm tannins as well. It finish sappy, fresh and coherent. What it misses, though, is a little bit of the integration of a really strong vintage. The alcohol here is 14.5% here. Rating: 92-94 Chris Kissack, www.thewinedoctor.com (Apr 2024)
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2023 LE CLARENCE DE HAUT BRION Pessac-Léognan Château Haut Brion
Release date: 14/5/2024
Like La Chapelle de La Mission Haut-Brion, this presents a nose of powdered chalk, crushed with rose petals, peony and pepper. This has a little more delineation and appeal than La Chapelle, withLike La Chapelle de La Mission Haut-Brion, this presents a nose of powdered chalk, crushed with rose petals, peony and pepper. This has a little more delineation and appeal than La Chapelle, with directly drawn fruit, broad and correct, with a little sense of sinew and structure to it. Plenty of firm phenolic grip here, showing though at the end. Lots of structure, but perhaps not quite enough direction here; all the same this is a very nice second wine, although it will need some time to absorb that grip. The alcohol here is 14.2%. Rating: 90-92 Chris Kissack, www.thewinedoctor.com (Apr 2024)
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2023 CHÂTEAU HAUT BRION 1er Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 14/5/2024
The 2023 Haut-Brion was picked at the same time as the La Mission Haut-Brion, albeit the secateurs sheathed one day later, on October 6. The nose is less immediate than the La Mission and the fruitThe 2023 Haut-Brion was picked at the same time as the La Mission Haut-Brion, albeit the secateurs sheathed one day later, on October 6. The nose is less immediate than the La Mission and the fruit is a little darker: blackcurrant, juniper, hints of black olive and a light cedar scent. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grip and tension. This has superb energy, presenting a crescendo of flavors toward a complex and persistent finish that lingers in the mouth. There is real pedigree to this First Growth, and it will certainly give 30 to 40 years of drinking pleasure. Drinking range: 2030 - 2065 Rating: 96-98 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Apr 2024)
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2023 CHÂTEAU MALARTIC LAGRAVIÈRE Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 7/5/2024
The 2023 Malartic Lagravière is a beautifully poised, elegant wine. It is perhaps not as exuberant as many wines in this vintage, and yet all the elements are very nicely balanced. I find theThe 2023 Malartic Lagravière is a beautifully poised, elegant wine. It is perhaps not as exuberant as many wines in this vintage, and yet all the elements are very nicely balanced. I find the interplay of rich, heady flavors, aromatics and classicism to be intriguing. It will be interesting to see where this goes, but I like the direction. Lifted floral top notes add to an impression of understated finesse. Drinking range: 2028 - 2043 Rating: 92-94 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (May 2024)
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2023 CHÂTEAU LA GARDE Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan
A step change for La Garde this year with a majority of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. Floral and fragrant, really alive on the nose, expressive and so energetic. Fruit forward and lively, I loveA step change for La Garde this year with a majority of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. Floral and fragrant, really alive on the nose, expressive and so energetic. Fruit forward and lively, I love the finesse and the construction, really well made, layered with lots of minerality, crunchy red fruits, great acidity and focus on the crushed stones, graphite and pencil led. It has a smooth body, with a grip to the tannins but lots of focus and definition to the elements. Quite a serious take but all harmonious, nothing sticking out with plenty of underlying power. Polished and accomplished. A top value pick and exciting project to follow. Axel Marchal consultant. No Petit Verdot in the blend this year. 4% press wine - more so than in previous vintages. 35% grand vin production reduced from 50%. Rating: 94 Georgie Hindle - Decanter (May 2024)
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