Pessac-Léognan
Pessac Léognan was a decent afternoon's work this year. A region with predominantly gravel soils, the intense heat, and hugely variable rainfall required minute by minute evaluation in the vineyard. Guillaume Pouthier of Carmes Haut Brion (sensationally excellent) said it was a year of 'intense involvement' to make a wine that by all accounts has even surpassed their magnificent 2022.
Neighbouring Haut Brion - always the hardest to assess at such a young age here, stands very tall in 2023, as did the much-revamped Château Haut Bailly. Perhaps the highlight was Smith Haut Lafitte, basking in the glow of a recent visit by King Charles III and Queen Camilla, where Charles could see the benefits of the organic viticulture which he had advised owner Florence Cathiard to pursue over a polo match 20 years ago. It is a similar story at Domaine de Chevalier. A thoroughly energising afternoon's tasting and little to fault.
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L&S Recommendations
L&S 'best buy' recommendations are marked with this symbol .
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2023 CHÂTEAU HAUT BAILLY Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 11/6/2024
The grand vin is a blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot, and the yield was 40.5 hl/ha, a little above average for the appellation. This takes 55% of theThe grand vin is a blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot, and the yield was 40.5 hl/ha, a little above average for the appellation. This takes 55% of the crop. The aromatics here are pure, crystalline and (like the second wine also) framed and enhanced by a touch of reduction. I find crystalline red cherries, redcurrants, leather and plum, with an overlay of matchstick. This translates into a very precise, sinewy, lithe and rather athletic palate, with a medium body, and a firm sense of frame. Within there is a backbone of tightly knit and correct tannin, wrapped in the tense red fruits seen on the nose, with that reductive trace again, and a great sense of energy which bursts forth at the finish. A delicious and very drinkable example of Haut-Bailly, with finesse but also mettle, classic for the château, and it should give a lot of pleasure. The élevage will be in 50% new oak. The alcohol is 14.4%. Rating: 94-96 Chris Kissack, www.thewinedoctor.com (Apr 2024)
In Bond
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2023 CHÂTEAU LE THIL Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 10/6/2024
Slightly shy and closed for the first sniff, the 2023 Le Thil reveals aromas of dark wild berries, spices and mulberries after time in the glass. Medium-bodied, juicy and elegant, it’s seamless andSlightly shy and closed for the first sniff, the 2023 Le Thil reveals aromas of dark wild berries, spices and mulberries after time in the glass. Medium-bodied, juicy and elegant, it’s seamless and charming with structured tannins and a long, ethereal finish. This blend of 92% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc, matured 30% in new oak barrels, has turned out nicely. Drinking range: 2025 - 2035 Rating: 89-91 Yohan Castaing, www.robertparker.com (Apr 2024)
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2023 LE PETIT SMITH HAUT LAFITTE Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 10/6/2024
This has a big structure of polished tannins that are energetic and punchy. Medium to full body with beautiful blackcurrants, as well as dark tobacco and wet earth. Chewy at the end, but a pointedThis has a big structure of polished tannins that are energetic and punchy. Medium to full body with beautiful blackcurrants, as well as dark tobacco and wet earth. Chewy at the end, but a pointed and focused finish. More structured than 2022. 60% cabernet sauvignon and 40% merlot. From organically grown grapes. Rating: 94-95 James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com (Apr 2024)
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2023 CHÂTEAU SMITH HAUT LAFITTE Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 10/6/2024
Cabernet dominant in terms of aromatics and weight through the palate, opening with fennel, sage, violets, peonies, squid ink, cocoa bean, espresso, with the texture softening and becoming creamierCabernet dominant in terms of aromatics and weight through the palate, opening with fennel, sage, violets, peonies, squid ink, cocoa bean, espresso, with the texture softening and becoming creamier through the mid palate. The hidden depths and slow build that elevates the always-seductive character of Smith Haut-Lafitte into one of the truly exceptional wines of Bordeaux are fully on display. Wine director Fabien Teitgen on his 28th vintage at the estate - and this is the vintage where King Charles and Camilla visited the property, so it comes with a commemorative label. 26hl/h yield, harvest September 8 to October 5. Drinking range: 2031 - 2048 Rating: 96 Jane Anson, www.janeanson.com (May 2024)
In Bond
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2023 CHÂTEAU LES CARMES HAUT BRION Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 5/6/2024
Gorgeous floral aromatics on this wine, fine tannins, delivering lift and energy with a precise and vibrant focus on peony and violet flowers. Things get pretty serious on the palate withGorgeous floral aromatics on this wine, fine tannins, delivering lift and energy with a precise and vibrant focus on peony and violet flowers. Things get pretty serious on the palate with concentrated aniseed and fennel, and some austerity. 25% whole cluster, 20% new barrels, 70% vats of 30hl, 10% amphoras. 50hl/h yield. Two years in barrel and then one year in bottle before release. Harvest September 20 to October 5. Drinking range: 2026 - 2036 Rating: 91 Jane Anson, Decanter (May 2024)
In Bond
In Bond
In Bond
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2023 CHÂTEAU LATOUR MARTILLAC Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 29/5/2024
Grilled oak, deep ruby colour, touch of rose petals on the nose, more floral than many in the appellation, gives a pretty feel to the opening beats. This is on the fresher side of the vintage butGrilled oak, deep ruby colour, touch of rose petals on the nose, more floral than many in the appellation, gives a pretty feel to the opening beats. This is on the fresher side of the vintage but still with ripe fruits, and a cushion of air that runs through the palate, good quality, elegant, medium term drinking, should be good to go within four or five years, just allow the architecture to soften. 40% new oak, 33hl/ha yield. Drinking range: 2028 - 2038 Rating: 92 Jane Anson, www.janeanson.com (May 2024)
In Bond
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2023 DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 21/5/2024
The 2023 Domaine de Chevalier is beautifully resonant in the glass. Deep, layered and quite persistent, the 2023 has so much to offer. In many vintages, this red needs time to be at its best, butThe 2023 Domaine de Chevalier is beautifully resonant in the glass. Deep, layered and quite persistent, the 2023 has so much to offer. In many vintages, this red needs time to be at its best, but this edition has enough forward fruit to make me think it will drink well with minimal cellaring, even if the acids remain brisk. Graphite, dried herbs, menthol, licorice and rose petal build into the tense, saline-infused finish. The 2023 is all finesse. Drinking range: 2030 - 2063 Rating: 94-96 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (May 2024)
In Bond
In Bond
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2023 CHÂTEAU PAPE CLEMENT Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 16/5/2024
This is really classy with length and polish that shine brightly. Also, you see blackberry, bark, currant and mushroom character. Full-bodied with wonderfully polished tannins and a seamless finish.This is really classy with length and polish that shine brightly. Also, you see blackberry, bark, currant and mushroom character. Full-bodied with wonderfully polished tannins and a seamless finish. Rating: 97-98 James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com (Apr 2024)
In Bond
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2023 CHÂTEAU DE FIEUZAL Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 14/5/2024
Very impressive freshness and focus here. Bright and succulent, al-dente fruit right upfront and continuing through the whole length of the wine. Notes of forest floor, sea shell and iodine. MediumVery impressive freshness and focus here. Bright and succulent, al-dente fruit right upfront and continuing through the whole length of the wine. Notes of forest floor, sea shell and iodine. Medium body. It has bright acidity that adds tension and a lot of energy. Fine tannins, already beautifully integrated. Rating: 93-94 James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com (Apr 2024)
In Bond
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2023 LA CHAPELLE DE LA MISSION Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 14/5/2024
The 2023 La Chapelle de La Mission Haut-Brion is a potent yet accessible second wine. Soft contours add to its considerable appeal. Crushed flowers, spice and sweet pipe tobacco lift a core ofThe 2023 La Chapelle de La Mission Haut-Brion is a potent yet accessible second wine. Soft contours add to its considerable appeal. Crushed flowers, spice and sweet pipe tobacco lift a core of red-toned fruit in this racy, sensual Chapelle. Attractive floral and cinnamon notes linger. The 2023 is all charm—I expect it will drink well with minimal cellaring. Drinking range: 2026 - 2043 Rating: 90-92 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (May 2024)
In Bond
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2023 CHÂTEAU LA MISSION HAUT BRION Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 14/5/2024
The 2023 La Mission Haut-Brion was picked between September 5 until October 5, a relatively long picking, at 50hL/ha. It has a wonderful bouquet with brightness and verve: very well-defined red andThe 2023 La Mission Haut-Brion was picked between September 5 until October 5, a relatively long picking, at 50hL/ha. It has a wonderful bouquet with brightness and verve: very well-defined red and black fruit, a little floral in style, maybe not as rambunctious as recent vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins. A perfect line of acidity counterbalances the creamy texture, turning quite plush toward the finish, but it is amazingly well-focused. This is a generous La Mission Haut-Brion that will probably drink earlier than say, the 2022, as winemaker Jean-Philippe Delmas agreed. It’s very fine and very delicious, but I would not place it within the canon of top vintages. Drinking range: 2029 - 2060 Rating: 93-95 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Apr 2024)
In Bond
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2023 LE CLARENCE DE HAUT BRION Pessac-Léognan Château Haut Brion
Release date: 14/5/2024
Like La Chapelle de La Mission Haut-Brion, this presents a nose of powdered chalk, crushed with rose petals, peony and pepper. This has a little more delineation and appeal than La Chapelle, withLike La Chapelle de La Mission Haut-Brion, this presents a nose of powdered chalk, crushed with rose petals, peony and pepper. This has a little more delineation and appeal than La Chapelle, with directly drawn fruit, broad and correct, with a little sense of sinew and structure to it. Plenty of firm phenolic grip here, showing though at the end. Lots of structure, but perhaps not quite enough direction here; all the same this is a very nice second wine, although it will need some time to absorb that grip. The alcohol here is 14.2%. Rating: 90-92 Chris Kissack, www.thewinedoctor.com (Apr 2024)
In Bond
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2023 CHÂTEAU HAUT BRION 1er Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 14/5/2024
This is an exceptional Haut-Brion, offering juice and elegant balance alongside classically structured layers, generous but restrained, sense of architecture and building blocks of a truly great LeftThis is an exceptional Haut-Brion, offering juice and elegant balance alongside classically structured layers, generous but restrained, sense of architecture and building blocks of a truly great Left Bank wine. Rippling with sinewy muscles, juicy and controlled, packed with cocoa bean, espresso, liouqorice root, but none of these flavours dominate, knitted together, with a vertical lift. 100% new oak, Jean-Philippe Delmas director, Jean-Philippe Masclef technical director, no outside consultant. Drinking range: 2035 - 2050 Rating: 98-100 Jane Anson, www.janeanson.com (May 2024)
In Bond
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2023 CHÂTEAU MALARTIC LAGRAVIÈRE Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan
Release date: 7/5/2024
The 2023 Malartic Lagravière, a blend of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Franc, exudes aromas of dark wild berries, violet, mulberries, spices and licorice,The 2023 Malartic Lagravière, a blend of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Franc, exudes aromas of dark wild berries, violet, mulberries, spices and licorice, complemented with a delicate touch of oak. Medium to full-bodied, supple and elegant with bright acids and a delicate mid-palate, it’s refined and less structured than the 2022 vintage, making it a classic expression from this estate. Drinking range: 2025 - 2040 Rating: 91-93 Yohan Castaing, www.robertparker.com (Apr 2024)
In Bond
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2023 CHÂTEAU LA GARDE Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan
The 2023 La Garde has a lifted bouquet that is nicely defined, with plenty of blackberry and bilberry fruit and subtle loamy scents percolating through. The palate is medium-bodied with grippyThe 2023 La Garde has a lifted bouquet that is nicely defined, with plenty of blackberry and bilberry fruit and subtle loamy scents percolating through. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins, good body and ample structure, but it delivers more fruit than some of its peers. La Garde has been an improving estate in recent years, and this is another fine wine to add to that roster Rating: 90-92 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jun 2024)
In Bond