CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET
2021 Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot
Grapes | Chardonnay |
Colour | White |
Origin | France, Burgundy |
District | Côte d'Or |
Sub-district | Côte de Beaune |
Village | Chassagne Montrachet |
ABV | 13.5% |
Nearly ready for bottling when we saw it, an immediate expressive white fruit nose, supple palate with that citrus juice enlivening it. Drinking range: 2023 - 2030 L&S (Oct 2022)
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(mostly from La Bergerie with additional parcels in Les Chênes, Les Essards, La Bergerie, Benoîtes and La Corvée). Here too the nose is agreeably fresh with a different array of aromas that include resin, rosemary oil and just sliced white orchard fruit, especially pear. There is excellent mid-palate density to the delicious and well-defined medium weight flavors that are borderline rustic but do offer very good depth and persistence. This is a fine Chassagne villages and worth a look. Drinking range: 2027 - Rating: 89 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jun 2023)
Aromas of pear, mandarin oil and spices introduce the 2021 Chassagne-Montrachet Village, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and impressively concentrated wine that concludes with a long, saline finish. Indeed, if anything, it represents a step up over 2020. Drinking range: 2023 - 2035 Rating: 90 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Jan 2023)
Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot
The origins of the Pillot family in Chassagne can be traced back to the eighteenth century, when they seem to have been coopers more than vignerons. In the nineteenth century they abandoned barrel-making in favour of enlarging the property in Chassagne. Fernand and Laurent, who is the fourth generation, added to it again in 1992, and then in 2001 Laurent's wife Marie-Anne inherited half of her family's property, the Pommard domaine of Pothier-Rieusset, and Laurent and his father bought the other half. The domaine now stands at 14.5 hectares of vines across almost the whole length of the Côte de Beaune from Santenay to Beaune.
The Domaine is worked according to organic principles and are ploughed – no chemical weedkillers are used. They have also been members of the Dephy-ECO-phyto group, which works to reduce the number of treatments using copper sulphate, since 2012. In 2021 they began the process of organic certification.
Laurent has always managed to pack in a lot alongside his running of the vineyard. He has his own plane which he flies to all corners of France, used keep and hunts hawks, and conducts the Chassagne brass band as well as dabbling in Mayoral duties - on top of being a father of three, Anaïs, Adrien and Eugène. They are all mad about the alps and disappear up the mountains at regular intervals.
Laurent's eldest son Adrien has been travelling the world making wine all over the place for the last few years having completed his training in Beaune. Bringing back lessons learnt in Australia, South Africa and California (and from a stint at Lea & Sandeman), During harvest Adrien is now the one in the winery while Laurent takes charge of the picking team. The wines have long been L&S favourites in both red and white - they represent excellent value, and they age very well too, despite being attractive young. The whites are precise and pure, and not lacking for body and generosity, while the reds are velvety and juicy, beautifully balanced even if drunk young on their expressive Pinot fruit. The domaine was rightfully heralded in Decanter Magazine as 'an address that deserves to be better-known'. Great value and real pleasure across their range.
Read more about Adrien here in this recent Forbes article here.
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