Condrieu
The grand sweeping hills of Côte-Rôtie continue into Condrieu where the schist gives way to granite. Viognier is the only grape that matters here, Condrieu is its spiritual heartland and nowhere else in the world comes close to replicating the many nuances of this white grape found here. With a little over 200 hectares under vine on steep granite hills, everything here is done manually. If you are not in the vineyards tending the vines, chances are you are rebuilding the terraced walls - the work here is not for the faint-hearted.
The wines we like here are the modern, bright, mineral-toned examples, with subtle fruit expression and elegance but without the fatness and weight of the past.
Clos de la Bonnette
A new (ish) find, having tasted at trade shows and fairs in France, we were then thrilled that Matt Walls went so far as to list the 'Legende Bonnetta' cuvée as his top Condrieu from the 2019 vintage - a strong field with some fairly serious contenders!
Husband and wife team Isabelle & Henri are fully certified organic, they had been farming fruit and vegetables in the region since the 1970s but since 2009 have focused solely on the vine. They make some very compelling wines from a tiny 5 hectare estate, split between Condrieu and two sites in Côte Rôtie. Tasting these in London turned us into wide-eyed children – the wines are truly magical and surpassed our already elevated expectations. The Côte Rôtie and Condrieu are gorgeous – so sleek and polished, with a nose that you just want to dive into.
Isabelle characterised 2023 as:
‘A difficult but beautiful vintage, warm & dry but the yield was good and the wines are very beautiful.’
2023 CONDRIEU Légende Bonnetta Clos de la Bonnette
2023 Legend de Bonnette Condrieu 13% 11 months in old oak barriques and demi muids. Bottled in July and just a little closed on the nose, showing notes of jasmine and white flowers. The palate is2023 Legend de Bonnette Condrieu 13% 11 months in old oak barriques and demi muids. Bottled in July and just a little closed on the nose, showing notes of jasmine and white flowers. The palate is bright, floral and peachy, white melon, good acidity to carry it too, another top wine from IsabelleL&S (Oct 2024)
In Bond
Domaine Graeme & Julie Bott
A love story and a bit of good fortune; a love of the Syrah grape that led Graeme to the Rhone and the love of his life Julie, who came together whilst working at the prestigious cellars of Stephane Ogier. Theirs is a back story of adventure and spirit and one of serendipity too.
Our relationship with the pair stretches back some 8 years or so, when we often stopped and shared a beer after the Marché aux vins in Ampuis every January, it was no surprise when they told us they were setting out on their own journey.
The surprise came when they discovered that the house they had purchased in Verin, complete with 0.35 hectare of garden, was within the appellation of Condrieu, between the in-demand Coteau de Chéry and the illustrious Chateau Grillet. Graeme & Julie like to pick early to capture the freshness, the wines tend be expressive, bright and pure.
Watch the videos: Domaine G&J Bott or Condrieu Lieu-Dit L'ALEAU.
Graeme Bott on the 2023 vintage:
“The Condrieu degree in 2023 was 12.5° to 13°. If you were on top of the vineyards, you were OK, providing you had treated them.
Yields were better than what we could actually see, and we had ended 95% of the white harvest before the 18 September rain. In 2022, we sprayed the least ever because it was so dry, and in 2023 we sprayed the most ever because it was so wet. The reds are awesome.”
2023 CONDRIEU Domaine Graeme & Julie Bott
2023 CONDRIEU Domaine Graeme & Julie Bott Floral, honeysuckle, peach notes, clean and zippy, very fresh, citrus acidity that gives the wine energy and drive, a nice pinch of saline minerality too.2023 CONDRIEU Domaine Graeme & Julie Bott Floral, honeysuckle, peach notes, clean and zippy, very fresh, citrus acidity that gives the wine energy and drive, a nice pinch of saline minerality too. Very smart modern Condrieu.L&S (Oct 2024)
In Bond
2023 CONDRIEU Lieu-Dit L’Aleau Domaine Graeme & Julie Bott
2023 Condrieu Lieu-Dit l'Aleau Graeme & Julie's garden vineyard plot. Beautifully bright & floral on the nose, white flower, the palate is very precise and bright, lovely juicy fruit, apricot &2023 Condrieu Lieu-Dit l'Aleau Graeme & Julie's garden vineyard plot. Beautifully bright & floral on the nose, white flower, the palate is very precise and bright, lovely juicy fruit, apricot & green mango/guava, a nice touch of bitterness on the finish, great energy L&S (Oct 2024)
In Bond
Domaine Rémi Niero
This is one of the original domaines of the Condrieu appellation, and perhaps without the dedication to Viognier from Niero (and the likes of Vernay), Condrieu would not have the world-class reputation it has today.
The domaine existed 45 years ago when the whole appellation was just 8 hectares of vines (it's now 200 hectares), under the name Pinchon. Rémi's father Robert married the Pinchon daughter, so now, having been Domaine Niero-Pinchon for a bit, it has been shortened to simply Niero when Rémi took over.
The smart and charming Rémi started to work alongside his father in 2004 and today oversees the domaine along with his wife Krystel. They are the 3rd generation of winemakers and continue the tradition of the estate's refined and pure wines from Viognier and Syrah working from their cellars in Condrieu. The domaine has recently fully converted to organic farming. The wines, much like the estate, are pristine and pure.
The Condrieus come from just over 4 hectares of vines, all in the commune of Condrieu itself, in the parcels Coteau de Chéry, La Roncharde, Côte Chatillon, La Caille, Vergelas and Corbéry. All of these are considered some of the of the best sites in the world for Viognier. The wines are aged in tank (60%) and barrel (40%) for a year.
The Côte-Rôties come from two sites, La Viallière and Le Coteau de Bassenon, from the southern end of the appellation, a total of nearly 2 hectares. They are aged for 16 months in barrel, with 20% new wood. Along with the exceptional Saint Joseph there is also a new Crozes Hermitage in the range.
Adrien Encontre on the 2023 vintage:
“2023 was a hard vintage to read & understand, we worked constantly in the vineyards, and ultimately it was a good vintage for us. It reminds me of maybe the 2019 & the 2020”
2023 CONDRIEU Les Ravines Domaine Rémi Niero
2023 Condrieu Les Ravines Stainless steel for 50-60% with the remainder in the barrel 13.5% Bright and pure, the nose is classic, floral and apricot, aromatic, full and ripe with the tell tale2023 Condrieu Les Ravines Stainless steel for 50-60% with the remainder in the barrel 13.5% Bright and pure, the nose is classic, floral and apricot, aromatic, full and ripe with the tell tale violet and stone fruits, lovely and pure, very bright, has a touch of ginger & bitterness on the finish. Textbook modern Condrieu and lots to like over the next 3-5 years. L&S (Oct 2024)
In Bond
2023 CONDRIEU Coeur De Roncharde Domaine Rémi Niero
2023 Condrieu 'Coeur de Roncharde' 60% steel 40% oak & 1 new barrel = 10% new oak The nose is not as expressive and open as the Ravines. A lemon hue in the glass, lime and ginger, jasmine notes,2023 Condrieu 'Coeur de Roncharde' 60% steel 40% oak & 1 new barrel = 10% new oak The nose is not as expressive and open as the Ravines. A lemon hue in the glass, lime and ginger, jasmine notes, rounder and expressive, white peach and apricot, hints of ginger twist and floral length too, nice finish, lovely & lingering, showing the best of the cuvees. L&S (Oct 2024)
In Bond
2023 CONDRIEU Vernon Domaine Rémi Niero
2023 Condrieu Vernon 60% stainless steel 40% oak & 1 new barrel = 10% new oak Very expressive on the nose, bright and floral, jasmine and orange peel, violet and citrus notes, lovely acidity and2023 Condrieu Vernon 60% stainless steel 40% oak & 1 new barrel = 10% new oak Very expressive on the nose, bright and floral, jasmine and orange peel, violet and citrus notes, lovely acidity and long finish with hints of ginger. This is has such good mineral drive and poise, excellent as alwaysL&S (Oct 2024)
In Bond
2023 CONDRIEU Héritage Domaine Rémi Niero
So pleased to see the Heritage name re-appear after the dalliance with 'Cherytage' as a name, (even if that did emphasise the vineyard origin in Coteau du Chéry). More classic profile for Heritage,So pleased to see the Heritage name re-appear after the dalliance with 'Cherytage' as a name, (even if that did emphasise the vineyard origin in Coteau du Chéry). More classic profile for Heritage, apricot, musk, stone fruit, tangerine peel, oak is evident but will blend in with a year or so in bottle, lovely balance too. L&S (Oct 2024)
In Bond