Gigondas & Vacqueyras
With the dramatic backdrop of the Dentelles de Montmirail which dominate the skyline, the wines of Vacqueyras and Gigondas are starting to step out of the shadow of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and forge an identity of their own. It is just lazy to compare them to their more illustrious neighbour; these are wines of power, yes, but can also show finesse and freshness. The soils and elevations, especially in Gigondas, are quite varied, so making very broad generalisations is dangerous - it's better to look at them domaine by domaine or even vineyard by vineyard
Santa Duc Gigondas can be drunk from shortly after release, but these are wines grown high on the chalk-clay plateau, and with bottle age of say 6-8 years are only just starting to come into the sweet spot. The elevation and chalk make for wines with tension and length which age beautifully. The Gigondas of Thierry Faravel at Domaine la Bouïssière is also a wine from the hills, and like Santa Duc, it is harvested a week or more after the vines lower down. By contrast Thierry's Vacqueyras is on the slopes facing the Plan de Dieu, and shows a different, more opulent texture.
Domaine la Bouïssière
Thierry and Gilles Faravel's Domaine la Bouïssière in Gigondas is exceptional in many ways, apart from the personality of Thierry himself, it is the site of the vineyard, high up under the 'Dentelles de Montmirail' which makes the defining difference.
In contrast to the vines being baked on the plains of stones at the foot of the hill, the Bouïssière vines benefit from cooling air at night falling from the high peaks, and the wines retain a freshness and subtle persistence which is very different to the sometimes bludgeoning broadness and alcoholic heat of the wines on the plain.
Gilles and Thierry Faravel employ non-interventionalist practices to make wines as naturally as possible, resulting in wines of immense concentration and depth, with true vibrancy and the capacity to age for ten to fifteen years.
Thierry Faravel on the 2023 vintage:
“Vintage of great aromatic finesse, fruits, ripe, sweet spices. The palate reveals a beautiful length and suavity black fruit Fine tannins Silky and fresh palate. We’re seeing wines of delicacy and finesse.”
2023 VACQUEYRAS Domaine la Bouïssière
2023 VACQUEYRAS Domaine la Bouïssière - 47% Grenache 37% Syrah 16% Mourvedre 40% stems Lovely purple robe, on the fruit side, red cherry, raspberry and strawberry essence, soft and floral a touch of2023 VACQUEYRAS Domaine la Bouïssière - 47% Grenache 37% Syrah 16% Mourvedre 40% stems Lovely purple robe, on the fruit side, red cherry, raspberry and strawberry essence, soft and floral a touch of spice, acidity in full flow too, long fresh finish, I really like the fruit forward style.L&S (Oct 2024)
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2023 GIGONDAS Domaine la Bouïssière
2023 GIGONDAS Domaine la Bouïssière 4 x barrels tasted for impression 2023 Gigondas from barrel Medium purple, slightly closed on the nose, red cherry aromas, soft violets in the background, less2023 GIGONDAS Domaine la Bouïssière 4 x barrels tasted for impression 2023 Gigondas from barrel Medium purple, slightly closed on the nose, red cherry aromas, soft violets in the background, less obvious, wild strawberry and raspberry compote 2023 Gigondas from barrel A touch more on the mineral, from the dentelles 400 metres, Thierry says more vertical, the fruit is more serious without the plump roundness, fennel and garrigue, the acidity has dropped off but more structure… 2023 Gigondas 100% Grenache &WB, 400m elevation Very floral and perfumed on the nose, lovely concentrated fruit, red cherry/dark cherry, chocolate and spice, mineral toned 2023 Gigondas 100% Grenache 8-10 year old barrique More on the spice side, still lovely Grenache, lovely and pure All looking very classic from Thierry, final blend in London - juicy, fruit forward, structure and acids all in placeL&S (Oct 2024)
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Domaine Santa Duc
The name of Domaine Santa Duc has been at the pinnacle of wine in Gigondas since the mid 80’s when, under the firm guidance of the irrepressible and charismatic Yves Gras, they gained international recognition and high scores from wine critics. They have, for some time, been a reference point for quality and style, from one of the most consistently brilliant Crus in the Southern Rhone.
The future of the domaine is now in the very capable hands of Yves' son Benjamin, who becomes the 6th generation of the family to head up the estate. To borrow from Matt Walls ‘Yves Gras and his son Benjamin are very different characters. Yves has the air of a retired East End enforcer, but Benjamin is bookish and jovial’. It would appear from our recent tastings that the estate is in safe hands. Having a respectable CV that boasts stages at Domaine de la Romanée Conti and Vega Sicilia, and visits to nearly every wine producing country in the world, he brings fresh views and ideas, whilst respecting the traditions of his father's work and the past.
The entire 30-hectare estate is now biodynamically farmed and certified, with an emphasis on total respect for nature in the vineyard. They comprise a patchwork of prime vineyard sites in Gigondas totalling 13 hectares, including two brilliant lieux-dits, Les Hautes Garrigues & Clos Derriere Vieille, that bring out the very best expression of Grenache, Syrah & Mourvedre. There is also 6 hectares of prized parcels in Chateauneuf-du-Pape, that have gained high praise in a short space of time. The balance is spread across Vacqueyras and Cotes du Rhone. Nearly all the vines are trained goblet, with a program of Massal selection ongoing to ensure healthy vines from older rootstocks.
The wine making philosophy, like so many now, is as little intervention as possible. Stainless steel fermentation, with a proportion of stems and a short maceration followed by ageing in a mixture of large foudres and terracotta amphorae. The wines are fresh, elegant, pure, dark fruited and long lived although approachable in their youth too. Be in no doubt, these are some of the best wines being made in the southern Rhone.
Benjamin on the 2023 vintage:
“was a vintage of extreme heat and drought, although the wine presents very good quality of fruit and great balance”
2022 GIGONDAS Aux Lieux-Dits Domaine Santa Duc
2022 GIGONDAS Aux Lieux-Dits Domaine Santa Duc 15% Amphora 85% Foudre 80% Grenache 10% Syrah 5% Cinsault 5% Mourvedre Tightly wound sweet fruit, black cherry & redcurrant, hints of liquorice &2022 GIGONDAS Aux Lieux-Dits Domaine Santa Duc 15% Amphora 85% Foudre 80% Grenache 10% Syrah 5% Cinsault 5% Mourvedre Tightly wound sweet fruit, black cherry & redcurrant, hints of liquorice & spicy fruit, round tannin, long and bright finish, shows freshness too.L&S (Oct 2024)
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2022 GIGONDAS Les Hautes Garrigues Domaine Santa Duc
50% Syrah 50% Mouvedre Less on the perfume, more on the meaty garrigue style, bright crunchy red fruits with blue currant & dark cherry, violets , lovely juice, sweet and flowing, excellent very50% Syrah 50% Mouvedre Less on the perfume, more on the meaty garrigue style, bright crunchy red fruits with blue currant & dark cherry, violets , lovely juice, sweet and flowing, excellent very smart, great concentrated and textured, layers of dense dark fruit, vibrant too. Great elegance, will need time and patience.L&S (Oct 2024)
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