Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Steeped in wine tradition and rich in history, the wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape are some of the most celebrated in the whole of France, and with some justification. With 18 different grape varieties permitted, it can also lay claim to be the benchmark appellation when it comes to blending.
The first region to be granted an appellation in 1936, it is split into 5 different communes, with the classic galets roulés and red sand being the prized soil types and with the magnificent walled city of Avignon at the heart of things. As ever in the Southern Rhône, Grenache Noir is the key to all great Châteauneuf-du-Pape, ably assisted by a myriad of other supporting grapes Syrah, Mourvèdre & Cinsault, whilst Grenache Blanc & Clairette take centre stage for the extremely underrated whites of the region.
What certainly can be left in no doubt though, is the incredible value some of the wines of this region deliver compared with the more illustrious wines of Burgundy & Bordeaux, a theme that will be recurring throughout this offer.
Domaine de Cristia
Based around Courthezon and taking the name from the lieu dit 'Cristia', Domaine de Cristia was established by Etienne Grangeon in the early 1950s with just two hectares of Grenache. His son Alain joined the domaine in the 1960s. It was Alain who slowly started to increase the vineyard holdings and plant Syrah & Mourvèdre to complement the Grenache that makes up the majority of the estate.
Today the estate is in the very capable hands of Etienne's grandchildren, Baptiste, Dominique and Florent, who joined in 1999. They have nearly 19 hectares based mainly in the sandy soils around Courthezon. All the vineyards have been certified since 2008, with a biodynamic approach also being followed.
The vineyards are mainly northeast facing so benefit from not getting too much hot sun during the early part of the day, with the sandy soils lending freshness and elegance that is the hallmark of their cuvées.
Baptiste on the 2023 vintage:
“one of those dream vintages, as we got quantities and quality, with a perfect ripeness and healthy shape. Rich but not over concentrated, candy flavours, pale colour and great aromas!”
2023 CHÂTEAUNEUF DU PAPE Blanc Domaine de Cristia
80% Clairette, 20% Roussanne. Aged for 6 months in demi-muids. Certified organic. Tasted blind. The nose shows creamy oak, butterscotch and stone fruits. A real mouthful – textured and weighty with80% Clairette, 20% Roussanne. Aged for 6 months in demi-muids. Certified organic. Tasted blind. The nose shows creamy oak, butterscotch and stone fruits. A real mouthful – textured and weighty with plenty of oak at the moment, some good freshness as well, which is needed to drive the palate. Certainly needs time to soak up the plentiful wood. (AC) 14.5% Drink 2027 – 2040 Rating: 16.5 Alistair Cooper MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Nov 2024)
In Bond
2023 CHÂTEAUNEUF DU PAPE Classique Domaine de Cristia
2023 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee Classique 75% Grenache 15% Syrah 10% Mourvedre tasted from barrel, mainly destemed, from vineyards around Cristia on sandy soils, average age of vines 60 years old. A2023 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee Classique 75% Grenache 15% Syrah 10% Mourvedre tasted from barrel, mainly destemed, from vineyards around Cristia on sandy soils, average age of vines 60 years old. A full ripe nose of dark cherry. Bright redcurrant and raspberry, round sweet fruit, generous and juicy, really juicy, a lot to like here, very approachable now, nicely put together with a long long finish.L&S (Oct 2024)
In Bond
2023 CHÂTEAUNEUF DU PAPE Renaissance Domaine de Cristia
2023 CHÂTEAUNEUF DU PAPE Renaissance Domaine de Cristia tasted from barrel 60% Grenache 40% Mourvedre, part of the plot is 116 years old - Sweet & juicy, the oak is very prominent but, dense & sweet,2023 CHÂTEAUNEUF DU PAPE Renaissance Domaine de Cristia tasted from barrel 60% Grenache 40% Mourvedre, part of the plot is 116 years old - Sweet & juicy, the oak is very prominent but, dense & sweet, violets, cranberry, fine tannins, nice flow, a meaty twist on the finish L&S (Oct 2024)
In Bond
2023 CHÂTEAUNEUF DU PAPE Vieilles Vignes Domaine de Cristia
2023 CHÂTEAUNEUF DU PAPE Vieilles Vignes Domaine de Cristia tasted from barrel - 100% 100 YEAR OLD GRENACHE from Lieu Dit Cristia Vibrant juicy nose, red fruits, violets, red cherry, opulent and2023 CHÂTEAUNEUF DU PAPE Vieilles Vignes Domaine de Cristia tasted from barrel - 100% 100 YEAR OLD GRENACHE from Lieu Dit Cristia Vibrant juicy nose, red fruits, violets, red cherry, opulent and perfumed, sweet Grenache, a good hit of spice. 2nd barrel much more expressive, less bitter, lovely sweet fruit, blood orange, violets, dried herbs/pot puri, long and ripe…L&S (Oct 2024)
In Bond
Domaine de la Mordorée
Started in 1986 by the Delorme family, Domaine de la Mordorée has become one of the top estates in the Rhône, with arguably the most consistent quality. The word 'Mordorée', literally 'bronze' or 'golden-brown' is one of the many poetic names for a woodcock, the symbol of the domaine. Other such names include the cuvée names - 'La Belle Voyageuse' (the beautiful traveller), and 'La Dame Rousse' (the russet lady). Founding winemaker Christophe Delorme's objective was to be unintrusive and maintain total respect for his terroir and the fruit it produces, striving to achieve a perfect balance between concentration, terroir and balance.
The domaine consists of 55 Hectares, on 38 different parcels, providing a rich, wide range of soils and micro-climates. The whole domaine has been certified organic since 2007.
Following Christophe's untimely death in 2015, his wife and daughter, Madeleine and Ambre, have taken on the running of the domaine, ably assisted by Rémy Chauvet, who was the cellarmaster under Christophe. As Jeb Dunnuck has put it in the Wine Advocate, 'the estate is obviously still in incredibly capable hands'.
Ambre Delorme on the 2023 vintage:
“The wines are generous, bright and bursting with fruit. The rosés and whites are exceptionally elegant, fresh and incredibly aromatic. The reds are smooth, fruity and perfectly balanced with lovely tannins. These exceptionally pure and delicate wines are delectable in their youth yet capable of evolving beautifully for many years to come.”
Domaine de la Vieille Julienne
Under the guidance of Jean-Paul Daumen, this estate on the very northern borders of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation is now considered to be one of the leading domaines. One of the first estates to convert to biodynamic practises when Jean-Paul took over from his father in 1990, the 22 hectares of vineyards are nearly all north facing, giving relieve from the hot summer days and lending the wines the all-important freshness. Attention to detail is everything here, with some very old plots of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsault & Carignan and a wine making style more at home in Burgundy, it is clear to see why it is held in such high regard by journalists, Rhône enthusiasts, sommeliers and restaurateurs around the world.
Trois Sources is from sand-based vineyards on the lower banks of the estate and are the more approachable when young, whilst the Les Hauts Lieux come from the limestone dominated higher vineyards on the northern boundary of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and need more time to come around. In great years a Reserve wine is made in miniscule quantities from ancient Grenache vineyards. This is our second vintage we've offered from Vieille Julienne, and our excitement to be working with and shipping from this excellent domaine is ever growing; these are deeply coloured, pure and aromatic but with incredible freshness - you can buy these confident that they will richly reward patience over the next 8-15 years. They also produce an utterly brilliant Côtes du Rhône called Lieu-dit Clavin, possible the best value Côtes du Rhône in the entire Rhône Valley.
Domaine Santa Duc
The name of Domaine Santa Duc has been at the pinnacle of wine in Gigondas since the mid 80’s when, under the firm guidance of the irrepressible and charismatic Yves Gras, they gained international recognition and high scores from wine critics. They have, for some time, been a reference point for quality and style, from one of the most consistently brilliant Crus in the Southern Rhone.
The future of the domaine is now in the very capable hands of Yves' son Benjamin, who becomes the 6th generation of the family to head up the estate. To borrow from Matt Walls ‘Yves Gras and his son Benjamin are very different characters. Yves has the air of a retired East End enforcer, but Benjamin is bookish and jovial’. It would appear from our recent tastings that the estate is in safe hands. Having a respectable CV that boasts stages at Domaine de la Romanée Conti and Vega Sicilia, and visits to nearly every wine producing country in the world, he brings fresh views and ideas, whilst respecting the traditions of his father's work and the past.
The entire 30-hectare estate is now biodynamically farmed and certified, with an emphasis on total respect for nature in the vineyard. They comprise a patchwork of prime vineyard sites in Gigondas totalling 13 hectares, including two brilliant lieux-dits, Les Hautes Garrigues & Clos Derriere Vieille, that bring out the very best expression of Grenache, Syrah & Mourvedre. There is also 6 hectares of prized parcels in Chateauneuf-du-Pape, that have gained high praise in a short space of time. The balance is spread across Vacqueyras and Cotes du Rhone. Nearly all the vines are trained goblet, with a program of Massal selection ongoing to ensure healthy vines from older rootstocks.
The wine making philosophy, like so many now, is as little intervention as possible. Stainless steel fermentation, with a proportion of stems and a short maceration followed by ageing in a mixture of large foudres and terracotta amphorae. The wines are fresh, elegant, pure, dark fruited and long lived although approachable in their youth too. Be in no doubt, these are some of the best wines being made in the southern Rhone.
Benjamin on the 2023 vintage:
“was a vintage of extreme heat and drought, although the wine presents very good quality of fruit and great balance”
