Cairanne & Lirac
Cairanne
Cairanne is an appellation that attained AOC status as recently in 2015, and shares a similar feel to Rasteau in both geography and wine styles, perhaps that wines of Cairanne have a bit more muscle and rarely struggle for opulence and ripeness.
Lirac
Another appellation with a long history having gained AOC status in 1947, and again a region that has struggled for recognition given the ascendency of its neighbour Châteauneuf-du-Pape, a stone’s throw away but a miles away when it comes to the value to be had in Lirac. With Vacqueyras, it is one of the only two Rhône appellations allowed to make all three colours. The whites here can be fascinating.
I recently asked Jérôme Chauvet, cellarmaster at Domaine de la Mordorée, what he likes making the most and, in a beat, he came back with Lirac Blanc. From the first sip it is easy to see why, capturing freshness and energy from Grenache, Viognier, Roussanne, Marsanne and Bourboulenc. The wines from this estate are uniformly excellent.