Cairanne & Lirac
Cairanne
Cairanne is an appellation that attained AOC status as recently in 2015, and shares a similar feel to Rasteau in both geography and wine styles, perhaps that wines of Cairanne have a bit more muscle and rarely struggle for opulence and ripeness.
Lirac
Another appellation with a long history having gained AOC status in 1947, and again a region that has struggled for recognition given the ascendency of its neighbour Châteauneuf-du-Pape, a stone’s throw away but a miles away when it comes to the value to be had in Lirac. With Vacqueyras, it is one of the only two Rhône appellations allowed to make all three colours. The whites here can be fascinating.
I recently asked Jérôme Chauvet, cellarmaster at Domaine de la Mordorée, what he likes making the most and, in a beat, he came back with Lirac Blanc. From the first sip it is easy to see why, capturing freshness and energy from Grenache, Viognier, Roussanne, Marsanne and Bourboulenc. The wines from this estate are uniformly excellent.
Domaine de la Mordorée
Started in 1986 by the Delorme family, Domaine de la Mordorée has become one of the top estates in the Rhône, with arguably the most consistent quality. The word 'Mordorée', literally 'bronze' or 'golden-brown' is one of the many poetic names for a woodcock, the symbol of the domaine. Other such names include the cuvée names - 'La Belle Voyageuse' (the beautiful traveller), and 'La Dame Rousse' (the russet lady). Founding winemaker Christophe Delorme's objective was to be unintrusive and maintain total respect for his terroir and the fruit it produces, striving to achieve a perfect balance between concentration, terroir and balance.
The domaine consists of 55 Hectares, on 38 different parcels, providing a rich, wide range of soils and micro-climates. The whole domaine has been certified organic since 2007.
Following Christophe's untimely death in 2015, his wife and daughter, Madeleine and Ambre, have taken on the running of the domaine, ably assisted by Rémy Chauvet, who was the cellarmaster under Christophe. As Jeb Dunnuck has put it in the Wine Advocate, 'the estate is obviously still in incredibly capable hands'.
Ambre Delorme on the 2023 vintage:
“The wines are generous, bright and bursting with fruit. The rosés and whites are exceptionally elegant, fresh and incredibly aromatic. The reds are smooth, fruity and perfectly balanced with lovely tannins. These exceptionally pure and delicate wines are delectable in their youth yet capable of evolving beautifully for many years to come.”
2023 LIRAC Cuvée de la Reine des Bois Blanc Domaine de la Mordorée
2023 Lirac Blanc La Reine des Bois Grenache/Roussanne/Clairette/Viognier/Bourboulenc/Picpoul Blanc 10% neew oak 90% Stainless Steel Lovely bright floral nose, with hints lime marmalade & jasmine,2023 Lirac Blanc La Reine des Bois Grenache/Roussanne/Clairette/Viognier/Bourboulenc/Picpoul Blanc 10% neew oak 90% Stainless Steel Lovely bright floral nose, with hints lime marmalade & jasmine, riper and sweet pear and melon notes, long floral finish, nicely put together, a little spice and a hint of apple tooL&S (Oct 2024)
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2023 LIRAC La Dame Rousse Domaine de la Mordorée
2023 LIRAC La Dame Rousse Domaine de la Mordorée - 50% Grenache 50% Syrah Stainless steel & foudre Violets, strawberry and redcurrant, bright & crunchy fruit, a touch of tannin and nice twist of2023 LIRAC La Dame Rousse Domaine de la Mordorée - 50% Grenache 50% Syrah Stainless steel & foudre Violets, strawberry and redcurrant, bright & crunchy fruit, a touch of tannin and nice twist of pepper too, nice flow of acidity through the middle, bright and very pure, nicely doneL&S (Oct 2024)
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2023 LIRAC Rouge Cuvée de la Reine des Bois Domaine de la Mordorée
2023 LIRAC Rouge Cuvée de la Reine des Bois Domaine de la Mordorée - 1/3 equal parts Grenache/Syrah/Mourvedre all oak barrels from Lirac blanc. The wine is more serious, the Mourvedre is giving the2023 LIRAC Rouge Cuvée de la Reine des Bois Domaine de la Mordorée - 1/3 equal parts Grenache/Syrah/Mourvedre all oak barrels from Lirac blanc. The wine is more serious, the Mourvedre is giving the wine backbone, bright purple fruits, red cherry, redcurrant, tannins are really soft and in the background, sweet & long very generous, excellent.L&S (Oct 2024)
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Domaine des Escaravailles
Domaines des Escaravailles was established in 1953 by Jean-Louis Ferran and his two sons, Daniel and Jean-Pierre, in the village of Rasteau.
Today it is run by the third generation of the family, Gilles, the son of Daniel. With vineyards on not only the clay, limestone hillsides of Rasteau, but also in Cairanne, Roaix, Villedieu and St Roman de Malegarde. The estate is run organically and everything is done by hand with the wines made in the cellars in the heart of the property in Rasteau.
The estate takes it's name from the Occitan word for the Scarab Beetle, which you will also find adorning the labels of the wines.
Madeline Ferran on the 2023 vintage:
“So the 2023 vintage, despite a difficult start to the season, has surprised us in many ways. The whites and rosés have retained the freshness and minerality characteristic of our terroirs, while the reds are bright, deep and complex. Another vintage to have in your cellar…”
2023 CAIRANNE La Boutine Domaine des Escaravailles
2023 CAIRANNE La Boutine Domaine des Escaravailles 100% Grenache from old vines in Cairanne, concrete, 2 x eggs, 2 x old barrel, red cherry, red currant, really bright and pure, the balance is so2023 CAIRANNE La Boutine Domaine des Escaravailles 100% Grenache from old vines in Cairanne, concrete, 2 x eggs, 2 x old barrel, red cherry, red currant, really bright and pure, the balance is so good, tannins in play but not as pronounced as 22 14.5%L&S (Oct 2024)
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