Crozes Hermitage
This is the first of the big appellations as you head south. With some 1,800 hectares under vine on the east flank of the Rhône & the majestic Hermitage hill in the background, it can produce wines of great quality and wines for quaffing too. It is impossible to define a blanket style here: the wines from the north, with more elevation and a higher proportion of the granite, tend to be a little more lithe, angular or mineral.
As you move further south & east where the granite is less obvious and the alluvial soils and clay start to have an influence, you’ll find underrated whites and brighter, more exuberant reds, juicy even. This is excellent hunting ground for good value wines that perhaps, whilst not as stylish or long-term as the north, certainly give great joy.Domaine Christelle Betton
Christelle is the third generation, following in the footsteps of her father and her grandfather who tended to their vineyards, selling to négociants for a time, but bringing the winemaking back to the domaine in 2003.
Christelle manages 15 acres of vines in Crozes-Hermitage and one-third acre of vines in Hermitage. Soils in the village of Roche de Glun are alluvial, with many “galets roulés” commonly found along the Rhône River valley (and most commonly in Châteauneuf-du-Pape). The area is also very dry, which is why the Betton family has for years ploughed the land by hand, to better train their vines’ roots to dig deep in the rocky soils. Also, vineyards are well-exposed to the cold northern “mistral” winds from the Alps, helping preserve freshness and acidity in the grapes.
Christelle uses only older French oak barrels (from four to eight years, and sourced from white Burgundy producers) to age her wines. In general, wines are aged in barrel for one year, and are bottled unfined and unfiltered.
On the 2023 vintage, Christelle reflected:
“It reminded me a lot of the ‘22, perhaps a bit of ’21 too, it was very hot, but there is lots of freshness in the wines, very fruit forward.”
2023 CROZES HERMITAGE BLANC Elixir Domaine Christelle Betton
2023 CROZES HERMITAGE BLANC Elixir Domaine Christelle Betton - 40 year old Marsanne, medium light straw colour, apple, melon and pear in the nose, round fruit, lime notes, crisp and floral, very2023 CROZES HERMITAGE BLANC Elixir Domaine Christelle Betton - 40 year old Marsanne, medium light straw colour, apple, melon and pear in the nose, round fruit, lime notes, crisp and floral, very fresh, long finish, a little saline minerality too, a delight to drink nowL&S (Oct 2024)
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2022 CROZES HERMITAGE Espiègle Domaine Christelle Betton
2022 CROZES HERMITAGE Espiègle Domaine Christelle Betton - 20 year old vines, Argile & small stones Bright red fruits on the palate, cherry & raspberry infused, soft & floral, juicy and bright,2022 CROZES HERMITAGE Espiègle Domaine Christelle Betton - 20 year old vines, Argile & small stones Bright red fruits on the palate, cherry & raspberry infused, soft & floral, juicy and bright, very easy going, sweet and youthful, very Crozes L&S (Oct 2024)
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Domaine Gilles Robin
Gilles Robin took over the running of this vineyard in 1996, with the freedom to produce his own wines. With a history of winegrowing spanning four generations, Gilles' aim was to realise the potential of the 35-year-old vines. He immediately used only natural fertilizers and reduced yields to just 40 hectolitres per hectare (8/10 bunches per vine) to give a richer concentration of fruit and quality. A new winery was built into the ground to allow the wines to be moved delicately by gravity, rather than being pumped. Gilles' vineyard now extends to Saint Joseph (where he makes a tiny volume) and Hermitage, the core vineyard averages forty years old, and the wines gain in subtlety and balance with every vintage.
Gilles says of his wines, 'there is not a unique Syrah but rather a full spectrum of characteristics and potential expressed by Syrah varieties', to which might be added 'the spectrum of flavours of Syrah on different terroirs' as well, because his vineyards encompass the range of styles the appellation can produce. The 'Rochas' vineyard has deep soils which make for big wines with rustic tannins which take time to soften. It always produces tiny grapes which need fairly strong extraction to get the best of their deep, wild black fruit and spice notes. The 'Monico' vineyard is made up of broken-up rock and little pebbles and a deep clay. The clay retains water well and this is perfect for hot summers. A higher-toned red and black fruit character, ripe blackcurrant and blackberry, with elegant rather than massive tannins. Finally, the 'Terres Rouges' vineyard is made of gravels and red clay, typical of the 'Terrasse des Châssis'. The Syrah here displays finesse, elegance and aromatic complexity. The strong iron oxide content of this plot enables a maximum phenolic maturity. Intense colour, with purple highlights, aromas of violets, black fruits, sweet spices (pepper, nutmeg) and slightly smokiness. On the palate, this Syrah has silky tannins and fine minerality. All of these styles together make for beautifully balanced wines, the different cuvées emphasising the differing characteristics of primal fruit and sophisticated and complex depth. The vineyard has been organic since 2009.
2022 CROZES HERMITAGE Cuvée Albéric Bouvet Domaine Gilles Robin
2022 CROZES HERMITAGE Cuvée Albéric Bouvet Domaine Gilles Robin, from red clay, 1 year in oak 40% new, 50% whole bunch More serious, classic dark cherry and dark olive tapenade, the oak more2022 CROZES HERMITAGE Cuvée Albéric Bouvet Domaine Gilles Robin, from red clay, 1 year in oak 40% new, 50% whole bunch More serious, classic dark cherry and dark olive tapenade, the oak more obvious, toasty, and needs time to settle into itselfL&S (Oct 2024)
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Domaine Rémi Niero
This is one of the original domaines of the Condrieu appellation, and perhaps without the dedication to Viognier from Niero (and the likes of Vernay), Condrieu would not have the world-class reputation it has today.
The domaine existed 45 years ago when the whole appellation was just 8 hectares of vines (it's now 200 hectares), under the name Pinchon. Rémi's father Robert married the Pinchon daughter, so now, having been Domaine Niero-Pinchon for a bit, it has been shortened to simply Niero when Rémi took over.
The smart and charming Rémi started to work alongside his father in 2004 and today oversees the domaine along with his wife Krystel. They are the 3rd generation of winemakers and continue the tradition of the estate's refined and pure wines from Viognier and Syrah working from their cellars in Condrieu. The domaine has recently fully converted to organic farming. The wines, much like the estate, are pristine and pure.
The Condrieus come from just over 4 hectares of vines, all in the commune of Condrieu itself, in the parcels Coteau de Chéry, La Roncharde, Côte Chatillon, La Caille, Vergelas and Corbéry. All of these are considered some of the of the best sites in the world for Viognier. The wines are aged in tank (60%) and barrel (40%) for a year.
The Côte-Rôties come from two sites, La Viallière and Le Coteau de Bassenon, from the southern end of the appellation, a total of nearly 2 hectares. They are aged for 16 months in barrel, with 20% new wood. Along with the exceptional Saint Joseph there is also a new Crozes Hermitage in the range.
Adrien Encontre on the 2023 vintage:
“2023 was a hard vintage to read & understand, we worked constantly in the vineyards, and ultimately it was a good vintage for us. It reminds me of maybe the 2019 & the 2020”
2023 CROZES HERMITAGE Vie Magne Domaine Rémi Niero
2023 CROZES HERMITAGE Vie Magne Domaine Rémi Niero tasted from barrel Lovely bright fruit on the nose, redcurrant & violets, bright & juicy, good definition, easy style2023 CROZES HERMITAGE Vie Magne Domaine Rémi Niero tasted from barrel Lovely bright fruit on the nose, redcurrant & violets, bright & juicy, good definition, easy styleL&S (Oct 2024)
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